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Item #: OP845-234
MOUNT FITZROY: DIE QUALITAT DES NACHSTEN SCHRITTES. [FITZROY: QUALITY OF THE NEXT STEP]. Thomas Bubendorfer 1986 1st ed DJ VG-Near Fine. Four copies available. In German
By Bubendorfer, Thomas
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Vienna, 1986, 1st edition. 182 pp, color ills. In German. Magnificent Fitzroy book. In 1986, at age 23, Thomas Bubendorfer climbed one of the hardest mountains on the planet, Mount Fitz Roy in Patagonia, in an epic 23-hour non-stop solo. The success of this unique and unsupported expedition triggered off intensive media coverage and television portraits in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy. Thomas wrote his second book, 'Mount Fitz Roy – The Quality of the Next Step”, which was published in 1986. It also became a bestseller, and critics compared it with Robert Pirsig’s 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance” (which Thomas read only five years afterwards). Text in German. DJ, VG-Near Fine. 

From Bubendorfer's website: 

Strong hints of his future philosophy are found in 'Quality”, and his early influence by William Faulkner is clearly visible. He began to leave the trodden (and to him boring) path of mere description of – albeit sensational – climbing expeditions and to dwell on the universal truths underlying a solo climbers’ doing. For him, the basic question was and still is: 'What is true for a solo mountain climber who tackles the world’s highest and steepest mountain faces without ropes, what helps him to survive - is that true for people in other situations of life as well?”

 
Thomas Bubendorfer is one of the world’s foremost solo climbers. There are only few men in the world who live up to this extreme challenge. Unlike conventional climbers, a free solo climber uses neither ropes nor any other protection. In overhanging rock and ice faces up to ten thousand feet high his life depends entirely on his dedication, focus, and his ability to think and make decisions under extreme pressure: the slightest mistake is lethal. Solo climbing is the ultimate adventure.
 
In 1983, at the age of 21, Thomas Bubendorfer joined this small circle of solo climbers by conquering the highest and hardest face in the Alps - the notorious Eiger North Face in Switzerland. His historic 4-hour and 50-minute record stands to this day. Since that day, Thomas has been one of the dominating personalities in this sport. His list of climbing achievements, dating back as far as 1978, is unparalleled.
 
By the time Thomas Bubendorfer was 21, he had set an unprecedented 30 first solo ascents (all of which are rated 'hard-severe”), speed solo climbing records and 'youth records” in Austria, Switzerland, Italy, France and on a 23,000-foot peak in the former Soviet Union (at age 18). These include the infamous 3,000-foot 'Philipp Dihedral” in the northwest face of Mount Civetta in the Italian Dolomites (also in 1980), where he beat the 7-hour record established by the famous Italian Reinhold Messner by three hours! and the biggest and most famous mixed (rock and ice) climbs in the Alps.
 
Thomas won international fame as the first and only climber to solo ascend without ropes and in record time the treacherous north faces of the 'Big Three”: Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses. His most famous climb was the epic and unchallenged 'free solo” (meaning no ropes) of the notorious Eiger in 4 hours 50 minutes. To put this into perspective: on the Eiger he passed two well-equipped English teams whom it took three days to reach the summit; on the north face of Matterhorn, Thomas passed a Japanese team whom it took five days to complete what he did in 3 hours and 50 minutes.

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