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THE CALLING: A LIFE ROCKED BY MOUNTAINS Blarry Blanchard 2014 1st ed. WINNER OF THE 2015 BOARDMAN TASKER PRIZE FOR MOUNTAINEERING LITERATURE
By Blanchard, Barry
Price: $27.95


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Detailed Product Description
WINNER OF THE 2015 BOARDMAN TASKER PRIZE FOR MOUNTAINEERING LITERATURE

USA, 2014, 1st edition. 338 pp, color photos. With heart-pounding descriptions of avalanches and treacherous ascents, Barry Blanchard chronicles his transformation from a poor Native American/white kid from the wrong side of the tracks to one of the most respected alpinists in the world.
 
At thirteen, he learned to rappel when he joined the 1292 Lord Strathcone's Horse Army Cadets. Soon kicked out for insubordination, he was already hooked on climbing and saw alpinism as a way to make his single mother proud and end his family's cycle of poverty. He describes early climbs attempted with nothing to guide him but written trail descriptions and the cajones of youth. He slowly acquires the skills, equipment and partners necessary to tackle more and more difficult climbs, farther and farther afield.
 
He climbed throughout the Canadian Rockies, into Alaska and the French Alps and on to Everest, Peru, and the challenging mountains in Pakistan. From each he learns lessons that only nature and extreme endeavor can teach. This is the story of the culture of climbing in the days of punk rock, spurred on by the rhythm of adrenaline and the arrogance of youth. It is also a portrait of the power of the mountains to lift us – physically, emotionally, intellectually. New hardcover with Dust Jacket. 
  
Early reviews:
 
Barry Blanchard writes as the young alpinist climbed: passionately, full of heart. These stories are raw and superbly entertaining. Blanchard chronicles the “I hurt, therefore I am” era of mountain climbing.
--Steve House, alpinist, author, Training for the New Alpinism and Beyond the Mountain

Blanchard describes the essence of an era when climbing was dangerous and sex was safe. Like listening to classic rock music, Barry’s writing is just something I couldn’t stop reading; it makes me feel good. Keep rockin’.
--Marko Prezelj, alpinist, photographer

Blanchard is a great storyteller, and through his vivid characters and dramatic adventures he takes us on a journey through his early climbs in the Canadian Rockies to his later alpine-style ascents in the Himalaya. It’s a compelling book – I couldn’t put it down.
-– Steve Swenson, alpinist

Told through raw dialogue and striking images, what shines throughout is the respect and love Barry bears for his climbing partners. For Barry, sharing a rope on a mountain is emblematic of a deeply lived friendship.
-– Raphael Slawinski, alpinist

Conservative librarians are going to hate this book. The rest of us will love it. Sex (first time), drugs, (oxygen deprivation and others) and rock and roll (OK, more punk than pure rock, but definitely full volume), all against a backdrop of hard climbing on the world's wildest peaks. This is a story of brothers putting it all out there together, to a soundtrack of full-bore punk, sex and wild mountains.
-– Will Gadd, climber, host of documentary series Fearless Planet

About the Author

Barry Blanchard is one of North America's top alpinists, noted for pushing the standards of highly technical, high-risk alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies and the Himalayas. He lives in Calgary, Alberta.  
                    
BARRY BLANCHARD'S SIGNIFICANT CLIMBS:

2010- An ascent of the Robinson/Arbic route on the North Face of Mt Cromwell, Canadian Rockies, October.

2006- An ascent of “The Andromeda Strain” on Mt Andromeda, AB, via the direct, April.

2005- First ascent of “Supper Machine” 5.9, WI 5, East End of Rundle, Canadian Rockies. Ascent of the SE ridge of Mt Asperity, ED2, 5.9, WI2, and N face of Bravo Peak, ED1, 5.8, WI4, Waddington Range, Coast Mountains, British Columbia.

2004- Variation to the Callis/Kennedy route on the South face of the East Kahiltna Peak: “Homage to Pat”, WI 5, 5.7 mixed climbing.

2003- One day ascent of the Window Route on the South Face of the Grand Teton, Wyoming, with my wife, Catherine. Ascent of the Number Three Gully on Ben Nevis with my wife.

2002- Attempt on the South Face of Nuptse (to 7200m via a new line), Nepal, April 5 - May 27. Ascent of the Greenwood/Jones route on the North Face of Mt Temple. First ascent of Infinite Patience, Emperor Face Mt Robson VI 5.9 WI5 M5, Oct 23-26.

2001- April 13,14, first ascent of “Sans Blitz” V 5.5 WI7 400m East Face of Mt Fay. Ascent -to the top of the “Bibler Come Again Exit” of the “Moonflower Buttress”            Alaskan grade VI, North Buttress Mt Hunter, Alaska, May18-22.

2000- July 28th, third ascent of the Infinite Spur, South Face Mt Foraker, Alaska. 9000 foot Alaskan grade VI, May 27th-June 3rd. An ascent of the Cecchinel/Nomine’ route on Le Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mt Blanc.

1999- First ascent of “M-16” a WI 7+, A2, grade VI alpine route on the East Face of Howse Peak, March 23rd-27th.

1998- First ascent of 'The Silver Lining' a 12 pitch 5.10, grade V alpine route at the Columbia Icefield. First ascent of the W Face of Mt Alverstone; 'The Pugilist At Rest' 25 pitch 5.10, A3; and the 'Wilford Coulior' 5.9, grade 5; all in the St Elias, Alaska.

1997- An ascent of the N Face of Quitaraju, Peru; and an ascent of the 1963 route (with the Spanish Variation) on the SE Face of Mt Proboscis NW Territory, Canada. Ascents of 'Acid Howl', grade 6+, and 'Uniform Queen', grade 7, waterfalls.

1996- An ascent of the East Ridge of Artesonraju, Peru.

1995- First ascent of the Right Break of Riptide, an additional pitch added to 'Riptide'.

1994- An ascent of 'Riptide', grade 7 waterfall; and an attempt on the Kangshung Face of Mt Everest (Tibet).

1993- First ascent of 'In the Sirit of Crazy Horse', a grade 5 waterfall, Mt Wilson, Canada. An attempt on the Magic line of K-2, Karakorum, Pakistan; climbed to 8000m via the Kukuzka/Cessin 'French' connection. First ascents of: 'Auto de Fe', grade 5, A2; 'The Sliver', grade 6; 'Burning in Water, Drowning in Flame', grade 6; and 'Redman Soars', grade5, A1, 5.10; all waterfall and mixed climbs in Alberta.

1992- The Gervasutti Pillar on Mt. Blanc du Tacul, the Cordier Pillar on the W face of the Grande Charmoz. 'Striving For The Moon' a new waterfall route to the summit of Mt. Temple via the NE flank and E ridge.

1991- A solo attempt on the S face of Aconcagua and a solo first ascent on the N face of Kusum Kanguru(Nepal).First ascent of the Richard Cranium Memorial route NW Face Les Droites.

1990- First ascent of the NW ridge of Mt. Alberta.

1989- Winter ascent of the N face of Mt. Robson.

1988- Solo ascent of Polar Circus, first Winter ascent of the N face of Mt. Edith Cavell, first ascent of the N face of Howse peak (done in winter), attempt on the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat (to 25,300 ft.) Pakistan, and an attempt on the NE flank of   Mt. Everest (to 27,500 ft.) Tibet.

1987- First ascent on the 'Wild Thing', NE face of Mt. Chephren, Canadian Rockies, done in winter.

1986- W ridge of Mt. Everest to 27,000 ft, Tibet.

1985- First ascent of the N pillar of N twin, Canadian Rockies.

1984- First ascent of the E face of Mt. Fay (done in winter), and an alpine style ascent of the N ridge of Rakaposhi (Pakistan).

1983- First ascent of the Andromeda Strain,  Mt. Andromeda; and the third ascent of the N face of Mt. Alberta.

1982- Ascents of the Grand Centr  al Couloir, Mt. Kitchener; and the Cassin ridge, Mt. McKinley.

1981- Ascents of Slipstream, and the Nose and Salathe` wall on El Capitan.

1980- Ascents of the Bonatti pillar on the Petit Dru and the N face of Les Droites.
                       
    BARRY BLANCHARD'S SIGNIFICANT GUIDING EXPERIENCES:

2010- 172 days guiding including ascents of the North Face Main Summit on the North Face of Mt Edith Cavell, the East Ridge of Mt Temple, the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire, the North Ridge of Mt Assiniboine, the Middle Earth Gully on Mt Andromeda and a one day traverse from Mt Collier to Popes Peak. Two ice climbing ascents of Nemesis as well as ascents of Pilsner Pillar, Superbock, Polar Circus and the first ascent of K9 a 60 meter WI 3, 5.7 mixed ice climb close to the North Face of Mt Kitchener. Rock climbing ascents of Rain Check and Homage to the Spider. 2 days of high angle training the RCMP Emergency Response Team, Edmonton.

2009- 180 days guiding including two ascents of the Kain Face on Mt Robson, the East Ridge of Mt Temple, the Central Ice Bulge on Mt Fay, the Hourglass on the North Face of Mt Athabasca. A ski touring ascent of Mt Columbia.  Ice climbing ascents of Nemesis, Curtain Call and Redman Soars. 5 days of high angle training the RCMP Emergency Response Team for Southern BC.

2008- 173 days guiding including ascents of Pequeno Alpamayo, Piramide Blanca, and Huayna Potosi all in the Cordillera Real, Bolivia. Ascents of the Kallen/Roth route on the North Face of Mt Fay, the North Face of Mt Athabasca, the North Ridge of Mt Athabasca, the East Ridge of Mt Patterson, the North Ridge of Mt Assiniboine, and the East Ridge of Mt Temple.  A ski touring ascent of Mt Columbia. Rock climbing ascents of Ballista, 5.10c, on Tunnel Mountain, and the Kahl Wall on Mt Yamnuska, 5.10. The Linda Glacier route on Mt Cook, Southern Alps of New Zealand. 5 days of high angle training the RCMP Emergency Response Team for Southern BC.

 2007- 139 days guiding including ascents of Touclaraju, Cordillera Blanca, Peru; 3 ascents of the North Ridge of Mt Assinaboine; and 5 days of high angle training the RCMP Emergency Response Team for Southern BC.

 2006- 167 days guiding including an attempt on Mt Vinson, Antarctica. One week ski touring from Campbell Icefields Chalet, BC. An ascent of “Ham n Eggs” on the Mooses Tooth, Alaska. An Ascent of the North ridge of Mt Stephen, BC. Two ascents of the East ridge of Mt Edith Cavell, AB. An ascent of the North Face of Mt Stanley, BC.

 2005-151 days guiding including ascents of Polar Circus, WI5; Nemisis, WI6; Political World, WI5; Twisted, WI5; all waterfall ice climbs in the Canadian Rockies. “The Fold” 5.8, Mt Kidd; Greenwood/Boles, 5.8, Mt Edith; Kain Route, 5.6, Mt Louis; East Ridge Mt Patterson, IV, 5.7; North Face Mt Assinaboine, II; Canadian Rockies. Owen/Spalding, Grand Teton, Wyoming.

 2004- 138 days guiding including ascents of the Southeast ridge of Mt Aspiring, East ridge of Mt Cook, and traverse of the Remarkables all in the Southern Alps of New Zealand. North ridge of Mt Assinaboine in April,  East Ridge of Mt Temple, traverse of Mt Victoria from Watchtower Creek to Abbott Pass. Kain route on Mt Louis, North Face of Mt Fay, and Directissima on Mt Yamnuska.

 2003- 115 days guiding including an ascent of El Pico de Orizaba in Mexico, the North Ridge of Mt Assinaboine, the North Face of Mt Athabasca, the Fuhrer Ridge on Mt Robson and ascents of the Polar Circus and Sorcerer waterfalls.

 2002-130 days guiding including an ascent of El Pico de Orizaba in Mexico, the North Face of Mt Stanley, two ascents of the North Ridge of Mt Assinaboine and an ascent of the Sorcerer Waterfall.

 2001-104 days guiding including attempts on the East Ridge of Mt Edith Cavell and the Shwartz Ledges of Mt Robson.

 2000- 20 days guiding including an ascent of the North Face of Mt Athabasca, the Midi-Plan traverse, Chamonix.

 1999- 36 days guiding including an ascent of the right side of the Weeping Wall.

 1998-128 days guiding including an ascent of the N Face of Mt Stanely.

 1997- 156 days guiding including ascents of 'Whiteman Falls', 'Polar Circus', the Winston Churchill ski traverse, and the Ferrari Route on Alpamayo, Peru.

 1996- 90 days guiding including ascents of the Pilsnar Pillar waterfall and the Ferrari Route on Alpamayo, Peru.

 1995- 221 days guiding including ascents of Polar Circus, an attempt on the King Trench of Mt Logan, the North Face of Mt Athabasca, the North Face of Mt Stanley, the Forbidden Corner route on Mt Yamnuska, the North East ridge of Mt Waddington, the Snake Dike route on Half Dome (Yosemite Valley), and a week long ski trip to Castleguard Meadows.

 1994-135 days guiding including ascents of Mt Assiniboine, the Fuhrer Ridge of Mt Robson, and an attempt on Diran Peak (Pakistan).

 1993- 75 days guiding  including ascents of Curtain Call waterfall and Kitty Hawk waterfall.

 1992- 60 days guiding including ascents of the Upper Weeping Wall waterfall, Nemisis waterfall, Mt. Stanley N face in winter, and a ski ascent of Observation peak.

 1991- 140 days guiding including expeditions to Lobuche peak(Nepal), first ascent of the west face of peak 5886(Nepal), Aconcagua (Argentina), first ascent of Mt. Upton(St. Elias Mtns. Yukon), and an attempt on the N face of the Eiger(Switzerland).

 1990- 100 days guiding including expeditions to Island peak(Nepal), Aconcagua(Argentina), ascent of the north face of Mt. Temple.

 1989- 44 days guiding including ascents of Mt. Resplendent, the E ridge of Mt. Edith Cavell, Reprobate and the Right side of the Weeping Wall, and an expedition to the Mexican volcanoes: El Pico de Orizaba, Popocatapetl, and Iztaccihuatl(Los Tres Picos).

 1988- 67 days guiding including an expedition to Los Tres Picos, and three weeks of ski touring on the Durrand Glacier.

 1987- 25 days guiding including expeditions to Huascaran(Peru), and Los Tres Picos.

 1986- 80 days guiding including Mt. Robson via the Kain face, Carlsberg Collumn waterfall and the Bourgeaus left hand waterfall.

 1985- 168 days guiding including expeditions to the W buttress of Mt. McKinley, and the Los Tres Picos; and ascents of Mt. Louis via the Kain route, and the N faces of Mt.s Fay and Athabasca.

 1984- 70 days guiding including an expedition to the Los Tres Picos and two nine day mountaineering courses on the Wapta icefield.

 1983-112 days including an expedition to the Los Tres Picos and ascents of Mt. Victoria via the SE ridge, and Mt. Lefroy via the W face.

 1982- 70 days guiding including a nine day mountaineering course, Catamount glacier, British Columbia.

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