Chessler Books
Rock Climbing - Mountaineering - Exploration
New - Used - Collectible - Signed
Chessler Books Accepts PAYPAL Chessler Books Accepts VISA Chessler Books Accepts MASTERCARD Chessler Books Accepts DISCOVER CARD Chessler Books Accepts AMERICAN EXPRESS
All Orders Shipped via United States Postal Service   Chessler Books Ships Via USPS
Author:
Title:
Keyword:
Item #:
A B C D E F G H I
J K L M Mc N O P Q
R S T U V W X Y Z
Item #: OP182A-87010
ON EDGE: THE LIFE AND CLIMBS OF HENRY BARBER Chip Lee 1982 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine SIGNED by Henry Barber Multiple Copies Available
By Lee, Chip
Price: $29.99

List Price: $75.00
You Save $45.01 (60%)



Add to wish list


Detailed Product Description


Henry Barber

Boston, 1982, 1st edition. 291 pp, b/w photos. Hardcover with dust jacket. The jacket on this book almost always has some chips. Book is fine. Near Fine condition overall.

SIGNED or Inscribed by Henry Barber


The story of Hot Henry Barber, who in the 1970s may have been the greatest rock climber in the world. 

Nicknamed "Hot Henry" Barber was an advocate of clean climbing, a prolific first ascensionist and free soloist. He was one of the first American rock climbers to travel widely to climb in different countries. Barber was also one of the first 'professional' American rock climbers, supporting himself as a 'gear rep' for outdoor equipment companies, and by giving lectures and slide shows. He was an integral member of the 'Leading Four' quartet of the 1970s: Henry, John Stannard, Steve Wunsch, and John Bragg.

At age 17, Barber started climbing with the Boston chapter of the Appalachian Mountain Club. Although initially not athletically gifted, he became obsessed with the sport, and persevered, climbing as much as possible. By his own account, Henry climbed approximately 270 days in 1972; 325 in 1973. Around 1980 he told me he was still climbing about 300 days a year.

In 1973, Henry did the second ascent of Foops, an intimidating 5.11 route in the Gunks; this was five years after John Stannard had done the pioneering first ascent. This demonstrates the climb's difficulty, as at popular crags like the Gunks once a first ascent is put up, the second ascent usually follows within days or at the most a few weeks.

Barber was known for always climbing in his trademark white golfer's cap and white painter's pants, as well as his abrasive and arrogant demeanor. Henry was one of the few climbers of his era to actively seek and use media attention. His repertoire of moves, creativity, and problem solving abilities, and his tremendous self confidence and mental control, set him apart from his contemporaries.

Henry Barber was also one of the first advocates of clean climbing, climbing with only nuts for protection. Henry was an active climber before the era of spring-loaded camming devices that made protecting cracks without pitons feasible. One of Barber’s specialties was doing the first free ascent of established aid climbs.

Barber was a prolific soloist. He did a number of on-sight solo first ascents. In 1973, Barber soloed the Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel Rock in Yosemite National Park. The solo ascent, done on-sight in 2 1/2 hours, first brought Barber to prominence as a leading rock climber.

In 1976 Henry (along with Steve Wunsch, who later made a fortune on Wall Street) traveled to Dresden, East Germany along with Fritz Wiessner, to be the first Americans to climb there. Wiessner had learned rock climbing around Dresden early in the century. Tradition (and soft, fragile sandstone) demanded that rock climbers use no metal for protection; relying instead only on knotted nylon slings jammed into cracks to hold a leaders' fall. Climbers were expected to climb barefoot, and to abstain from the use of gymnasts' chalk. Barber was impressed with the rigors and difficulty of climbing around Dresden; the Dresden climbers were impressed with Henry's ability, although they also thought him too reckless, especially in the area of free soloing.

Barber was well traveled, at a time when rock climbers generally didn't stray far from their home crags. His style was to show up at an area and blow the local standards out of the water. In one trip he single-handedly jumped technical standards in Australia by more than a number grade. Other accomplishments include first ascent of the often-tried Butterballs in Yosemite with an almost mystical insight; blazing a trail of desperate first ascents in the Gunks; onsight free-soloing dozens of routes on many different rock types in many different countries, up to hard 5.10, at a time when the 5.11 grade was only starting to solidify.

Barber climbed at Mount Arapiles in Australia; Dresden; Great Britain; Scotland; Russia; Mexico; as well as climbing all over the United States, from the crags of New England to Yosemite in California, and (seemingly) most crags in between.

In 1978, Henry and partner Rob Taylor attempted to climb Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania by a new route. Taylor fell while leading steep ice, and broke his ankle very badly. The exact details of what happened following the accident vary according to which of the two parties is telling the story. What is known is that Barber helped Taylor descend; got him to a hospital; and then left to fly back to the United States to keep a speaking commitment. Taylor nearly lost his leg at the hospital, and felt abandoned by his partner. After he recovered, he wrote articles and a semi-fictional book called The Breach, painting Barber in a very unflattering light.


Other Items You Might Like

  • Similar Items Available
  • Items From This Author
  • Items From This Category
ON EDGE: THE LIFE AND CLIMBS OF HENRY BARBER Chip Lee 1982 1st ed Hardcover DJ Very Good-Near Fine Multiple Copies Available [Not Signed]
By: Lee, Chip
Price $5.99 ~ Regular $30.00, You Save $24.01 (80%)
- Item # OP182B-8774
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ALPINE JOURNAL 100s OF INDIVIDUAL ISSUES LISTED HERE! PAPERBACK, WRAPPERS or HARDCOVER ISSUES 1863-1986
By: Alpine Club UK
Price $10.00
- Item # JR207B
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SUMMIT MAGAZINE BACK ISSUES 1960s: 1960-1969 See This List of Available Issues
By: Summit Magazine
Price $10.00 ~ Regular $20.00, You Save $10.00 (50%)
- Item # JR154J-868
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MAZAMA BULLETIN Individual Back Issues 1905 - 1975 New issues recently added
By: Mazama Bulletin
Price $5.00
- Item # JR225-127
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SUMMIT MAGAZINE BACK ISSUES 1990s: 1990-1995 See This List of Available Issues
By: Summit Magazine
Price $10.00 ~ Regular $20.00, You Save $10.00 (50%)
- Item # JR154A-868
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE CLIMBING ART MAGAZINE Individual Back Issues Numbers 1 to 31
By: Climbing Art Magazine, Pat Ament
Price $10.00
- Item # JR156-869
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ALL 14 EIGHT-THOUSANDERS 1999 3rd ed Hardcover DJ Fine Multiple Copies Available SIGNED by Reinhold Messner
By: Messner, Reinhold
Price $69.99 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $80.01 (53%)
- Item # BK1013-9504p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THROUGH DANGEROUS DOORS: A LIFE AT RISK Robert Charles Lee 2021 1st edition SIGNED by Robert Charles Lee
By: Lee, Robert Charles
Price $19.95
- Item # BK8357-874
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
TRAIL AND TIMBERLINE 1962 - 1998 As Available Not a Set $5 each
By: Colorado Mountain Club
Price $5.00 ~ Regular $10.00, You Save $5.00 (50%)
- Item # JR727A-966
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ALL 14 EIGHT-THOUSANDERS 1989 UK Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Reinhold Messner 2 Copies Available
By: Messner, Reinhold
Price $155.00 ~ Regular $180.00, You Save $25.00 (14%)
- Item # BK1014C-8792p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ON EDGE: THE LIFE AND CLIMBS OF HENRY BARBER Chip Lee 1982 1st ed Hardcover DJ Very Good-Near Fine Multiple Copies Available [Not Signed]
By: Lee, Chip
Price $5.99 ~ Regular $30.00, You Save $24.01 (80%)
- Item # OP182B-8774
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EXCEPTIONAL MOUNTAINS: A CULTURAL HISTORY OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST VOLCANOES 2016 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by O. Allan Weltzien
By: Weltzien, O. Allan
Price $65.00
- Item # BK4627A-8622
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
HANDBOOK OF CAVE RESCUE OPERATIONS Daniel Smith 1978 Fine`
By: Smith, Daniel
Price $9.99
- Item # OP4666-882
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
INTRODUCTION TO MOUNTAINEERING George Smith 1967 Revised US ed Hardcover DJ Fine
By: Smith, George Alan
Price $1.99 ~ Regular $20.00, You Save $18.01 (90%)
- Item # OP6437D-385
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE PEAK EXPERIENCE: HIKING AND CLIMBING FOR WOMEN Carroll Seghers II 1979 Hardcover or Paperback 2 copies available
By: Seghers II, Carroll
Price $1.99 ~ Regular $20.00, You Save $18.01 (90%)
- Item # OP3940-8642
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVERYDAY MASCULINITIES AND EXTREME SPORT: MALE IDENTITY AND ROCK CLIMBING Victoria Robinson 2008 1st ed New Hardcover Multiple Copies Available
By: Robinson, Victoria
Price $0.99 ~ Regular $19.00, You Save $18.01 (95%)
- Item # BK2567-2826
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SOLO FACES [Novel] James Salter 1979 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Salter, James
Price $25.00 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $50.00 (67%)
- Item # OP135B-873
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ROCK GAMES: ESCALADES AUX ETATS UNIS [ROCK GAMES: CLIMBS IN THE UNITED STATES] Patrick Edlinger and Gerard Kosicki 1986 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Edlinger, Patrick and Gerard Kosicki (photos)
Price $49.95 ~ Regular $195.00, You Save $145.05 (74%)
- Item # OP472-862p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
CAMP 4: RECOLLECTIONS OF A YOSEMITE ROCKCLIMBER Steve Roper 1994 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine Multiple Copies Available
By: Roper, Steve
Price $45.00 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $5.00 (10%)
- Item # BK1297A-8604
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BACKCOUNTRY COOKING: FROM PACK TO PLATE IN 10 MINUTES Dorcas Miller 2000 3rd prtg Softcover Near Fine
By: Miller, Dorcas S.
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $15.00, You Save $10.01 (67%)
- Item # GB7929-891
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
A LIFE ON THE EDGE: MEMOIRS OF EVEREST AND BEYOND Jim Whittaker 1999 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine 3 Copies Available [Not Signed]
By: Whittaker, Jim
Price $19.95 ~ Regular $26.95, You Save $7.00 (26%)
- Item # BK1680E-9573
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart