Seattle or London, The Mountaineers or Crowood, 1989, 1st US or 1st UK edition. 322 pp, many color and b/w photos. Black hardcover with dust jacket. Fine.
Messner's solo climb of Everest in 1980, by a new route and without oxygen, captured and entranced the climbing world like no event since the first ascent.
On August 20, 1980, Reinhold Messner, the world-renowned master of alpine-style climbing, became the first person to reach the summit of Everest solo and without supplemental oxygen. A vivid account of Messner's expedition, The Crystal Horizon also reflects on how he explored his innermost thoughts while facing the most extreme physical challenge he had ever encountered. The furthest point for mind and body he calls his crystal horizon.
Inspired by the legendary mountaineers George Mallory and Maurice Wilson, Messner embarked on a year-long journey through Tibet to the glittering light and rarified air at the roof of the world. More than an adventure story, this is Messner's profound reflection on his emotional reactions to Tibet, the challenges he faced, and the explorations of self inspired by this amazing journey.
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Reinhold Messner is the most famous and probably most outspoken mountaineer there is. He has become increasingly more forthright in his opinions. Some cruel and perhaps envious critics attribute it to the years of climbing at extreme altitude without oxygen and claim it has affected his judgement so that now he says what he thinks rather than what people want to hear. Whatever he has to say or write is always worth considering.
His achievements are legendary including the first oxygen less climb of Everest, his solo ascents of Nanga Parbat and Everest. He was the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders and the third person to do all 'Seven Summits.' His greatest achievement, in my opinion, which transformed 8000 meter climbing was when in 1975 he and Peter Habeler climbed an 8,000 metre mountain, Hidden Peak, alpine style: the start of the climb was done from the bottom of the mountain and all the gear needed was carried, no route preparation is done and supplemental oxygen is not used.
Whenever Messner writes on mountaineering it is always worth reading. He is, however a towering ego. Having summited with Peter Habeler without artificial oxygen Everest this was not enough. From now on few would share the glory with Messner.
In The Crystal Horizon he tells of his 1980 summitting of Everest, solo and without oxygen. He also begins to position himself in the climbing pantheon as he identifies with the greats who went before him whilst seeming to pay homage to them.
Whatever one’s views on Messner, his achievements are legendary, particularly this 1980 solo climb of Everest without oxygen, without support, carrying only a tent, camera, some climbing equipment, and food when during the monsoon season he climbed the world's tallest mountain.
