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Item #: OP250-443
K2: 8611M Charles Houston, Bob Bates, George Bell 1954 1st ed Softcover Fine
By Houston, Charles, Bob Bates and George Bell
Price: $119.99

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Detailed Product Description
Paris, 1954, first edition. 100 pp, 70 b/w and color photos and map. In English and French. Still has original advertising wrapper over the book wrappers (dust jacket), bright and Fine to New. A clear mylar cover has preserved this book in Fine to New condition!

If you collecting standards demand the best condition for your books, this is the one to own.

If there is one book that we have never applied the term "New" to it is this one. A victim of the French propensity to most publish books, even really nice picture books like this, as paperbacks with dust jackets (wrappers) this one has suffered a lot. We have seen dozens of copies in 35 years and this is by far the one in best condition.

The title of this book is K2 8611 M. This book was published in 1954 in Paris by Arthaud. This is the first and only edition of the book. It measures 10" x 8", 100 pages, 7 color and 63 b/w photos, route diagram, loose folded map, which is often missing. This book was published only in France and was never translated into English. It is primarily a photo album of the famous 1953 K2 expedition and has only 11 pages of text. ALL of the photo captions are in both English and French.

This is the photo account of one of the greatest and now legendary episodes in the history of high altitude mountaineering, the 1953 K2 expedition. High on the world's second highest mountain, above the steepest & most treacherous sections of the climb, team member Art Gilkey became gravely ill. Chances were that he would die. But the team refused to abandon their mate, and with considerable peril to their own safety, committed to the impossible task of dragging, lowering, and carrying their stricken comrade back down the mountain. There was an accident. All should have died. But Pete Schoening's heroic belay saved all their lives.

Dr. Houston and Robert Bates are strongly associated with the history of K2 since they were both on the pioneering 1938 and 1953 K2 expeditions. Dr. Houston was also one of the first people to view the Khumbu side of Mt Everest when he joined a small party including H.W. Tilman that explored the region in 1950. He was also a member of the 1938 Nanda Devi expedition with Tilman and Noel Odell. Houston was perfectly positioned for the first summit attempt on Nanda Devi but he became ill from food poisoning. In Alaska he made the first ascent of Mt Foraker in 1934. Dr. Houston is a world authority on high altitude medicine having pioneered many studies in the field and written seminal papers and several books on the subject.

Robert Bates made ascents world wide including some early climbs in Alaska, such as climbs with Bradford Washburn of Mt Crillon, Mt Lucania, and Denali (Mt McKinley). In 1985 he made the first ascent of Ulugh Muztagh 6985m in China.


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