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Item #: OP1475
CHOGOLISA. THE JAPANESE CHOGOLISA EXPEDITION 1958. SIGNED by Kurt Diemberger 1959, 1st edition
By Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto.
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Tokyo, Asahi Newspaper, 1959, first edition. 138 pp, 88 pages of plates, some color. The first ascent of Chogolisa, 25,110' or Bride Peak, in the Karakoram. This expedition was led by Prof. Takeo Kuwabara and the summit was reached by M. Fujihara and K. Hirai. This was only one year after Hermann Buhl died on Chogolisa by falling through a crevasse. The team found Buhl's diary and gave it to Walter Bonatti who was also there, climbing Gasherbrum IV.
This was an important and busy year on the Baltoro Glacier. The Italians with Bonatti and Carlo Mauri were doing the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV that summer, and the Americans with Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufmann were doing the first ascent of Gasherbrum I as well. There is a photo of Schoening in the book. Larger book (10' high), Fine, with DJ plus the original cellophane wrapper atop the DJ.
SIGNED by Kurt Diemberger,
who attempted Chogolisa with Hermann Buhl, and Buhl died on the descent.
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