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Item #: OP189C-560
NANDA DEVI: THE TRAGIC EXPEDITION 1987 3rd prtg Hardcover DJ SIGNED by John Roskelley and John Evans
By Roskelley, John
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Detailed Product Description

London or PA, 1987, 3rd printing. 240 pp, ills. Hardcover with dust jacket. Fine condition.

SIGNED by John Roskelley and John Evans on the title page. 
 
A controversial book about a controversial climb. In 1976, John Roskelley joined an expedition to climb the mountain called Nanda Devi in India. The story of that tragic climb, told with sensitivity and passion, is the subject of this long-awaited book.

It is a story of strong emotion-of conflicting ambitions and misplaced dedication, of death and victory, of desire and regret. It is the story of top mountaineer Willi Unsoeld, leader of the expedition, who supported the participation of his young, inexperienced daughter, whom he had named for the mountain he considered the most beautiful in the world. It is the story of Nanda Devi Unsoeld, the idealistic, free-spirited woman who was determined to scale the mountain for which she was named.

It is the story of Ad Carter, who had been one of the team that climbed to the top of Nanda Devi for the first time, forty years before; of Lou Reichardt and Jim States, two of the three team members who reached the summit; of the other members of the climbing team who included John Evans, Elliott Fisher, Andy Harvard, Marty Hooey, Peter Lev, and the Indian porters who participated in various parts of the climb.

But most of all, this is the story of John Roskelley, who led the summit party of three to the top of Nanda Devi, and who remains deeply affected by the memory of the climb and its tragic outcome.

Roskelley is outspoken and honest about what he considers an ill-conceived expedition that allowed unqualified climbers to participate in an ascent that was extremely serious and technically demanding. But if he seems uncompromising about the failings of others, the man widely considered to be America's-and possibly the world's-best mountaineer speaks with the wisdom and authority born of tireless dedication and grueling preparedness. This is a story and a man not to be forgotten.

Notable ascents

1973 Northeast Ridge Dhaulagiri, Nepal. Third ascent of peak. Summit reached with Louis Reichardt and Nawang Samden, May 12, 1973.[1]


1976 Northwest Face Nanda Devi, U.P., India. New route and fifth ascent of peak. Summit reached by Roskelley, Louis Reichardt and Jim States on September 1, 1976. Because Nanda Devi Unsoeld, the daughter of Willi Unsoeld, died on the mountain, Roskelley's article describing the climb was called 'Nanda Devi; the Tragic Expedition'.


1977 First Ascent of Great Trango Tower with Galen Rowell, Dennis Hennek, Kim Schmitz and Jim Morrissey.


1978 Northeast Ridge/East Face and Abruzzi Ridge K2, Pakistan. New route and third ascent of peak. Summit reached by Louis Reichardt and Jim Wickwire on September 6, 1978; Roskelley and Rick Ridgeway reached the summit the next day.] This was the first ascent of K2 by a team from the United States.


1979 West Face Gauri Sankar, Rolwaling Himalaya, Nepal. FA of Route and peak, with Sherpa Dorje, summitting on May 8, 1979.[4]


1979 East Face (VII F8 A4) Uli Biaho, Karakorum, Pakistan. FA of route and peak with Ron Kauk, Bill Forrest and Kim Schmitz.[5]


1989 Northeast Face Taboche, Nepal. First ascent of route by Jeff Lowe and John Roskelley, reaching the summit on February 13, 1989. Climb chronicled in 'Last Days' by John Roskelley (see Writings).


1995 Roskelley, Tim Macartney-Snape, Stephen Venables, Jim Wickwire and Charlie Porter attempted a new route on Monte Sarmiento, on the western shores of Tierra del Fuego, where Roskelley, Macartney-Snape and Venables summited via new route up the southwest face of the western summit.


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