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Item #: OP213-226
CHANGABANG. Chris Bonington and Doug Scott [Not Signed] 1975 1st Am edition DJ Fine
By Bonington, Chris, Doug Scott, Martin Boysen, Alan Hankinson, Dougal Haston, Balwant Sandhu
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New York, 1975, 1st Am edition. 118 pp, ills. Hardcover, DJ, Near Fine.

This 22,500' peak near Nanda Devi in the Garhwal is known as the Matterhorn of the Himalaya. First ascent included Scott, Haston, Boysen, etc. This book has six authors, all of whom climbed what has been described as 'the Matterhorn of the Himalayas. ' Chris Bonington was the leader of the expedition; Martin Boysen, Alan Hankinson, Dougal Haston, Balwant Sandhu and Doug Scott also took part in the climb.

The mountain proved to be a challenge, both because there was no easy route, and because citizens of two countries had to find a way to get along in strenuous and often dangerous conditions. Obviously, these mountaineers lived to tell their tale. 
 
Changabang (6,864 m or 22,520 ft) is a mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many world-class climbs. It does not have a high topographic prominence, being slightly lower than its near neighbor Kalankato the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity. But its steep rocky profile has made it a much more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate.

Changabang was first climbed on June 4, 1974 by a team led by Chris Bonington, via the Southeast Face, leading to the East Ridge. This is the easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow and ice climb, as opposed to a rock climb with some snow, ice, or mixed terrain. The whole team summited: Chris Bonington, Martin Boysen, Alan Hankinson, Dougal Haston, Balwant 'Ballu' Sandhu and Doug Scott.

Other notable ascents of Changabang include some of the hardest climbs ever done in the Himalaya. The first of these is the ascent of the West Face by Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker in 1976. The route took over 25 days to ascend, and their use of big wall climbing techniques to overcome the serious, sustained difficulties was revolutionary. Boardman wrote a book about the climb called 'The Shining Mountain.'

In 1997, Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy made the first ascent of the North Face of Changabang, a 1,600 m (5,250 ft) route involving steep, sustained ice, mixed, and rock climbing. Unfortunately Murphy was hit by an avalanche and swept off the face to his death on the descent.

On October 12, 2006, two Mexican climbers, Andrés Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra, were successful in climbing Changabang by a new route. However, while descending, they encountered a storm and went missing on October 15, when they last made contact via satellite phone. India put on a rescue effort despite harsh weather conditions. On November 8, 2006, the search for them had been canceled due to inclement weather. (Adapted from Wikipedia).

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