The High Atlas mountains of Morocco have mountaineering potential galore. With 7 peaks over 4000m, and myriad other remote, little-climbed and poorly mapped summits, the region offers countless challenges for experienced winter climbers and scramblers looking for adventure.
This, the first English-language guide of its kind, outlines walks, climbs and scrambles on 40 peaks right aross the range from Taroudant in the south-west to Midelt in the north-west, all accessible from Marrakech.
Taroudant
1 Jbel Tingerwet south-west ridge2 Jbel Tingerwet west-north-west ridge
3 Jbel Awlim south-west ridge4 Jbel Awlim south ridge
5 Imaradene from the east6 Imaradene from the south and west
7 Awlim north-east ridge
8 Awrir n-Said west ridge
MarrakechImlil
9 Toubkal refuges via Tizi Aguelzim10 Toubkal refuges via Tizi n-Tadat11 Toubkal refuges via Clochetons breche12 Toubkal refuges via Tizi Melloul and Tizi Afella
13 Tazaghart via Tizi Melloul14 Tazaghart Diagonal Couloir15 Tazaghart Descent Couloir
16 Biguinoussene from Tizi n-Tadat17 Biguinoussene south ridge
18 Afella via Tizi Melloul19 Afella via Aougdal Bou Tiouna
20 Akioud north-north-west ridge
21 Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim east ridge from Tizi n-Ouagane22 Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim north-east couloir23 Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim north-west ridge
24 Jbel Toubkal south cwm south col25 Jbel Toubkal north cwm north col26 Jbel Toubkal north-east ridge27 Jbel Toubkal south-west (Ouanoums) ridge28 Jbel Toubkal south-east ridge
29 Toubkal West north-east ridge
30 Imouzzer north cwm north col south-west ridge
31 Angour north side ledge32 Angour west ridge
33 Anrhemer west ridge
34 Bou Iguenouane via Amazzer Meqqoren35 Bou Iguenouane ridge traverse (north to west-south-west)
36 Tizi Likemt to Tizi n-Tagharat traverse
Ait Bougammez
37 Tarkeddit refuge from Agouti 38 Tarkeddit refuge from Sebt Ayt Bou Wlli39 Tarkeddit refuge from Tondout
40 Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West from Tarkeddit refuge41 Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West north-east ridge (traverse)
42 Oumassin and Aslad from Tarkeddit refuge
43 Aklim from Tarkeddit refuge or Tatrarat
44 Tarkeddit ridge – east to west traverse
Zawat Ahansal
45 Ouaougoulzat west summit46 Tagafayt
47 Azurki north-east to south-west ridge traverse48 Azurki north face couloirs
Midelt
49 Jbel Maasker via Inifif
50 Jbel Ayyachi, Sayd ou Addi and Ichichi n-Boukhlib via the Cirque de Jaffar