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FASCINATION MATTERHORN Beat Perren 1988 1st ed Large Format Hardcover DJ Fine Multiple copies available
By Perren, Beat
Price: $235.00


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Detailed Product Description

Zermatt, 1988, 1st edition. 256 pages, 200+ color photos, many full page and double page. Text in English, German, French, Spanish, Japanese and Italian. Extra large-format hardcover (14' high, 5 lbs), DJ, Near Fine. 

The most incredible book of Matterhorn pictures and stories we have ever seen. The author is a rescuer on the Matterhorn, and the hundreds of spectacular aerial photos taken from helicopters make this one of the finest mountain photography books ever done [1988 was the pre-drone era!]

Due to the large weight and size of this book, extra postage charges will be requested for Media Mail, Priority Mail and International Mail. 

Matterhorn

From Wikipedia


The Matterhorn (German) or Cervino (Italian), (French: Mont Cervin or Le Cervin) is the most familiar mountain in the European Alps. On the border between Switzerland and Italy, it towers over the Swiss village of Zermatt and the Italian village of Breuil-Cervinia in the Val Tournanche. The mountain derives its name from the German words Matte, meaning meadow, and Horn, which means peak.

The Matterhorn has four faces, facing the four compass points, the north face overlooking the Zmutt Valley, the south face Breuil-Cervinia, the east and west faces looking towards the Gornergrat and the Dent d'Hérens,respectively, with the north and south faces meeting to form a shortest, west summit ridge. The faces are steep, and only small patches of snow and ice cling to them; regular avalanches send the snow down to accumulate on the glaciers at the base of each face. The Hörnli ridge of the northeast, clearly seen in the center of the view from Zermatt, is the usual climbing route.

Climbing

The Matterhorn was climbed later than most of the main mountains of the Alps, not because of its technical difficulty, but because of the fear it inspired in early mountaineers. The first serious attempts began around 1857, mostly from the Italian side; but despite appearances, the southern routes are harder, and parties repeatedly found themselves on difficult rock and had to turn back.

It was not until 14 July 1865, after several failed attempts and some nationalistically motivated backstabbing, that the party of Edward Whymper, Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, and Douglas Robert Hadow was able to reach the summit, along with Michel Croz and the two Peter Taugwalders (
guides, father and son). 

The party tried the Hörnli route and found it considerably easier than expected. On the descent Hadow slipped, knocking Croz off his feet, and dragging Hudson and Douglas with him. The rope connecting them to the other three men broke; the four fell to their deaths on the Matterhorn Glacier 1,400metres (4,600 ft) below. The bodies of all but Douglas were found and are buried in the Zermatt churchyard. Whymper's ascent is considered to be the last of the golden age of climbing in the Alps, when all the major peaks were first climbed.

Three days later, on 17 July 1865, a party led by Jean-Antoine Carrel reached the summit from the Italian side. In 1868  Julius Elliott made the second ascent from the Zermatt side, and in the same year John Tyndall traversed the summit, together with J. J. Maquinaz and J. P. Maquinaz. In 1871, Lucy Walker became the first woman to stand on top of the mountain, followed a few weeks later by her rival Meta Brevoort.


Meta Brevoort with the guides Christian Almer and his son Ulrich Almer to her left, and her nephew W. A. B. Coolidge to her right, c. 1874.

Today, all ridges and faces of the Matterhorn have been ascended in all seasons, and mountain guides take a large number of people up the Hörnli route each summer. By modern standards, the climb is fairly difficult (AD Difficulty rating), but is not hard for skilled mountaineers. There are fixed ropes on parts of the route to help. 

Still, because of the scale of the climb and inherent dangers, inexperience, falling rocks, and over crowded routes, several climbers die each year. 

The usual route is to take the Schwarzsee cable car up from Zermatt, hike up to the Hörnli Hütte (elev. 3,260 m/10,695 ft), a large stone building at the base of the main ridge, and spend the night. The next day the climber rises at 3 am so as to reach the summit and descend before the regular afternoon clouds and storms come in.

Other routes on the mountain include the Italian ridge, first ascent by Jean-Antoine Carrel and Jean-Baptiste Bich on 17 July 1865; the Zmutt ridge, first ascent by Albert F. Mummery, Alex­ander Burgener, J. Petrus and A. Gentinetta on 3 September 1879; and the north face route, one of the six classic north faces in the Alps, first ascent by Franz and Toni Schmid on 31 July–1 August 1931.


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