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Item #: OP18A-831
I HOLD THE HEIGHTS Peter Mulgrew 1964 1st US ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Ed Hillary
By Mulgrew, Peter
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New York, 1964, 1st US edition. 204 pp, 24 plates. Hardcover with dust jacket. Fine.

SIGNED by Ed Hillary.

An account of the 1960 Makalu expedition under the leadership of Hillary. The account of Hillary's 1960 expedition to Makalu where he experimented with the effects of high altitude climbing without oxygen. Mulgrew, who accompanied Hillary (and whose widow ended up marrying Hillary), recounts the expedition with humour and without self-pity although he suffered tremendously of frostbite, and had to be brought back down before reaching the summit. He also tells of the amusing aim of the expedition in attempting to capture a live yeti! 

To climb 27,790-foot Makalu without oxygen, to carry out high altitude physiological research and to capture an Abominable Snowman: such were the aims of the Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition, led by Sir Edmund Hillary, which set off in 1960. With Hillary went Peter Mulgrew, of the Royal New Zealand Navy, an experienced mountaineer who had accompanied Hillary to the South Pole in 1957. Mulgrew collapsed when nearly at the summit of Makalu, and was brought back down to base severely frostbitten and literally more dead than alive, by his comrades, who braved appalling dangers in the race to save his life.

At the little hospital at Kathmandu, a drug given to alleviate his pain set up an addiction. On return to Auckland, both feet and several fingers had to be amputated. The shock deepened the addiction; but Peter Mulgrew and his wife faced, fought, and conquered it together. Peter Mulgrew writes clearly, vividly and with great good humour. His disablement has left unscathed his wit and his high spirits.

Peter Mulgrew. Hillary's long time friend died on Air New Zealand Flight 901 (TE901). This was a scheduled Antarctic sightseeing flight from Auckland International Airport. The Antarctic sightseeing flights were operated with McDonnell Douglas DC-10-30 aircraft and began in February 1977, with this being the 14th flight. On 28 November 1979 the flight crashed in Antarctica, killing all 237 passengers and 20 crew members aboard. Sir Edmund Hillary had been scheduled to act as the guide for the fatal flight, but cancelled due to other commitments. In his place long-time friend and climbing companion, Peter Mulgrew, stood in as guide.

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