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Item #: JR112-1179
THE THEORY OF BELAYING Arnold Wexler 1950 Softcover Reprint AAJ Article Fine Multiple Copies Available
By Wexler, Arnold
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Reprint from the AAJ, 1950. 26 pp, diagrams. Stapled reprint article. Fine.

A very important advance in belaying methods is proposed. The theory of belaying is finally approached in such a way as to accommodate the great stresses put on the rope, with the limitations of the strength of natural fiber ropes, and how the leader can be adequately protected.

The idea of allowing the rope to slide over the belayers body, or other static point, is shown to provide that margin of dynamic arresting of the fall. The 'dynamic belay' was better than allowing the rope to fail in a static belay.
 
Fortunately nylon ropes soon came into common use just after this was written, and just as higher climbing standards were being created, so adequate protection was available for climbers, with a much simpler methods of belaying for the second or belayer. 

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