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GEOFFREY WINTHROP YOUNG Alan Hankinson 1995 1st UK ed Hardcover DJ Fine
By Hankinson, Alan
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1995, UK edition. 365 pp, photos. Young was the guru to the inter-war generation of climbers, and introduced modern techniques and ethics to rock climbing. A fascinating account of a remarkable life. Black cloth hardcover with dust jacket. Fine. 

Winner of the Boardman Tasker Award 1995.

Wikipedia: Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876 1958)was an English climber and author of several notable books onmountaineering. He began rock climbing shortly before his first term atTrinity College, where he studied Classics and won the Chancellor's Medal for English Versetwo years in a row. While there, Young wrote a humorous campus climbingguide, a satirical parody of pompous early alpine guides.

During the Edwardian Period, and up until the breakout of hostilities heralding World War I,Young made many new and difficult ascents in the Alps and on local rocks in the Lake District and Wales. He was elected president of the Climbers' Club in 1913, and he organized the Pen-Y-Pass gatherings that propelled the advancement of rock climbing and included such technical luminaries as J. M. Archer Thompson, George Leigh Mallory, Siegfried Herford and Oscar Eckenstein. These parties, beginning in earnest about 1907, and sometimes reaching sixty men, women and children, flooded the hotel and overflowed into Eckenstein's miner's cabin and various tents. They came to an end in 1914.

During the War, Young was, at first, a correspondent for the liberal Daily News, but later was active as an officer of the FAU, the Friends' Ambulance Unit. He received several decorations, but on August 31st of 1917 an explosion took one of his legs, and his service in the War was over.

He continued to climb for a number of years with an artificial leg, ascending the Matterhorn in 1928. To support himself and his family he worked for the Rockefeller Foundation and spent much time in Germany, and having met Kurt Hahn before the War helped Hahn immigrate to England in 1934. The Outward Bound movement, after World War II, owes a considerable debt to their friendship.

During World War II, Young was president of the Alpine Club, and it was through his untiring efforts that the British Mountaineering Council, the umbrella organization for climbers in Great Britain, was created in 1945.


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