Bio

Steve’s most (in?)-famous ascent occurred in September 2005. He and Vince Anderson pioneered a direct new route on the Rupal Face of 8126-meter (26,660-foot) Nanga Parbat. The 4100-meter (13,500-foot) face had never before been climbed in alpine style. During Steve’s 2004 season in the Karakoram he raised the standards of alpine climbing with his solo ascent of K7 via a new route in 41:45 hours (with 26 hours of nonstop climbing to summit) using no fixed ropes, no bolts, and only a seven-pound pack. It was the mountain’s second ascent.

'Recently, I have had a lot of attention focused on my climbs of K7 and Nanga Parbat. But I spent a lot of time and a lot of passion pursuing climbs in the Alaska Range, the Canadian Rockies, and the European Alps. In many ways I am most proud of these ascents.'

These ascents include the first ascent of First Born on the Father and Son’s Wall, a solo first ascent of Beauty is a Rare Thing, and Mascioli’s Pillar, all on Denali. In the nearby Ruth Gorge, Steve, Mark Twight, and Jonny Blitz climbed The Gift on Mt. Bradley and with Kevin Mahoney and Ben Gilmore he opened The Leisure Tour on the east face of the Moose’s Tooth.

'The Alps are a touchstone for me, largely because of the history. I am on an informal quest to climb the six great north faces.' So far, he’s done three: The Walker Spur on the Grande Jorasses (in winter), the 1938 route on the north face of the Petite Dru, and the 1937 Comici route on the north face of the Cima Grande in the Dolomites.