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Item #: OP405B
CHOUINARD EQUIPMENT CATALOG 1972 SIGNED by Doug Robinson
By Chouinard, Yvon. Tom Frost, Doug Robinson
Price: $375.00

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Detailed Product Description
The 1972 Chouinard Equipment Catalog marked a watershed in climbing culture/technology by establishing a standard for clean climbing ethics in the United States. In addition to lots of nice photos of gear, features in the catalog include:

  • “A Word..” An essay on clean climbing by Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost
  • A History of Chouinard Firsts with a photo of Yvon Chouinard and John Salathe in 1964
  • The essay, “The Whole Natural Art of Protection,” by Doug Robinson
  • Short pieces on “the Yosemite Method,” “A simple rappelling system and the Yosemite Hammer,” Nailing Flexible Flakes,” “Method of Removing,” and “Safety Considerations.”
  • There are a number of ads for Chouinard equipment. The front cover is a reproduction of a sixteenth century Chinese painting. This 96-page Catalog contains a number of lovely black and white photos of mountain scenes and climbers. The dimensions are approx 6 3/8 x 11 in. Near Fine condition, except that there is some superficial soiling to the front and rear covers and page edges. No internal or external writing, no mailing label, no rips, no flaws. SIGNED by Doug Robinson

Check out http://climbaz.com/chouinard72/chouinard.html - every page of the catalog is scanned in and discussed.

On the site is an interview with Steve Grossman

'Another thing that really affected me ethically early on was the 1972 Chouinard climbing catalog. It made a strong push for clean climbing in terms of free protection and people relying less on hammered protection. It had a lot of affect on everybody pretty much in climbing at the time in a way that’s really unparalleled. It laid out the ethics of British rock climbing. You have a small island with a fairly finite amount of rock and a lot of heavy use. They really, in contrast to what was happening in the rest of Europe, developed a low impact ethic. It allowed their routes to see heavy traffic and minimal damage. The big push was toward that same kind of ethic.

Fortunately, at the same time, Chouinard equipment came out with hexes and stoppers, equipment that made all that kind of low impact climbing possible. Prior to those innovations, the kind of nuts that were available out there were just not really all that effective. The synergy of that catalog pushing that ethic and equipment that was being produced revolutionized climbing as we know it. Thinking about it now, had that not happened, and had people continued to pound pins and bust flakes off and scar and damage rock, things would be much uglier out there. It’s really pretty horrifying what would have gone on if that revolution hadn’t happened.'

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