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Item #: AAJ2009
AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2009 IN STOCK!
By American Alpine Club. Harlin, John
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AAC, Golden, CO, 2009. 295 pp, many color & b/w photos, maps.  The 2009 American Alpine Journal Volume 51 Issue 83 is now in stock.
 
* The American Alpine Journal is the reference source for everyone planning anything new in the mountains or venturing into remote ranges.
* Nearly 150 pages of exciting stories about the most important climbs of the year, as told by the climbers themselves, and reviews of the best climbing books of the year.
* Nearly 250 pages of short reports from new routes in the world's mountains

In this year's American Alpine Journal, Chad Kellogg finds closure on a Chinese mountain with bitter memories; Mike Libecki surveys a wild region of unclimbed walls in Greenland; Katsutaka Yokoyama and the Giri-Giri Boys introduce enchainment to North America's highest mountain; Paul Knott and Bruce Normand lift the veil from unclimbed summits of the Chinese Tien-Shan range; a Japanese pair succeeds on the much-eyed southeast face of Kamet, the third-highest peak in India; and Valery Babanov recounts his two new routes on 8,000-meter peaks in a single season. Plus more from Baffin Island, Patagonia, and summits between.
 
Table of contents:
 
16  Samurai Direct, by Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi. The first ascent of the southeast face of Kamet in India.
24  Pachinko on Denali, by Katsutaka Yokoyama. The Giri-Giri Boys make the Big One even bigger.
32  Bushido, by Yusuke Sato. The first ascent of the complete north face of Kalanka in India.
38  Return to Siguniang, by Chad Kellogg. 72-pitch new route in China concludes a story of obsession and redemption.
47  Untapped Potential, by Paul Knott and Bruce  ormand. Exploring the Chinese Central Tien Shan.
8  Checkmate, by Ueli Steck . change in strategy brings success on the northwest face
of Tengkangpoche in Nepal.
64  Karakoram Doubleheader, by Valery Babanov. Broad and Hidden peaks: Two new routes in less than four weeks.
72  Roar of the Wind, by Simone Moro.  The first winter ascent of Makalu.
78  Take the Long Way Home, by Stefan Glowacz. The first climb in Baffin Island’s super-remote Buchan Gulf.
86  The End of the Affair, by Mike Libecki. First-ascent potential in southeastern Greenland.
9   Risky Business on San Lorenzo, by Jordi Corominas single-push new route on Patagonia’s second-highest peak.
100  Another Level, by Maria Coffey. Explorers of the Infinite asks a basic question: Why?

106  Contiguous United States
126  Alaska
14   Canada
1 4  Greenland
177  Mexico
178  Peru
183  Venezuela, Brazil, Bolivia
194  Argentina & Chile
21   Antarctica
220  Middle East (Turkey, Oman)
223  Africa (Morocco, Madagascar)
226   orway
236  CIS: Russia, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan
2 4  Afghanistan
260  Pakistan
286  India
316   Nepal
348  China
3 6  Tibet
3 9  Australasia (Irian Jaya)
361  AAC Grants
363  Book Reviews, edited by David Stevenson:
New  books  by  Majka  Burhardt  &  Gabe  Rogel,  Andy  Cave,  Elizabeth  &  Nicholas Clinch,  Maria  Coffey,  Lincoln  Hall,  Nick  Heil,  Michael  Kodas,  Tomaz  Humar, Maurice Isserman & Stewart Weaver, Jennifer Lowe- nker, and Stephen  Venables.
376  In Memoriam, edited by Cameron M. Burns
Remembering  Theodore  H.  (Ted)  Church,  Pavle  Kozjek,  lan  Nelson,  Bill  Stall,
and Gene F. White.
383  Club Activities, edited by Fred Johnson
389  Index
399  Grade Comparison Chart
 
PREFACE

After a year in rehab, the Piolet d’Or—the “golden ice axe” prize in world alpinism — reinvented itself as the Piolets d’Or. In case you missed it, the change is an “s,” which in French makes a word plural. The editors of the  AAJ were among the many voices disapproving of the original Piolet d’Or because judges picked a single “winner” from the year’s climbs. We feel that climbing, and especially climbing mountains, is a deeply personal pursuit; we like to see it driven by private goals and a love of the mountain environment. And we look to climbing events and media for inspiration that helps to keep our minds in the clouds even when we’re sitting at our desks. From our perspective, a high-visibility event like the Piolet d’Or should celebrate our shared passions, not promote a competitive spirit.

When Marko Prezelj used the stage to turn down a Piolet d’Or that had been offered him (for his new route on Chomolhari—see  J 2007, cover and p. 14), the controversy went pub-lic. As the rhetoric boiled over, the organizers, spearheaded by Montagnes magazine, decided it was time for a re-think. They reached out widely, including to the  J, and drafted a new charter recasting the event as a celebration rather than a competition. But not everyone was convinced, and so in January 2008, shortly before the 17th annual Piolet d’Or ceremony was to take place, the award was suspended.

Now please welcome the Piolets d’Or. In the words of Doug Scott, president of this year’s international jury, “This edition signals the rebirth of the Piolet d’Or. For us there are no winners, no losers. The honored are the ambassadors of an art, a passion.” The new awards “aim to celebrate the taste for adventure and sense of exploration that lie behind the art of climbing in the world’s great mountain ranges.” Criteria include style, exploratory spirit, commitment, respect for objective dangers, respect for people on and off the team, respect for the environment, and respect for the needs of future generations who will tread these hills. A lot of respect.

Because these are things we all hold dear, the  J’s editors support the Piolets d’Or organizers’ efforts to live up to these ideals. Not only is the  J the world’s reference for new mountain routes, we’ve long chosen our feature articles by informal criteria much akin to the Piolets d’Or’s new charter. We provided the jury with extensive information about climbs in 2008, a role we’ll likely continue as long as the Piolets d’Or is more celebration than competition.
The ceremony last April—honoring 2008 climbs—was a great initial effort. Our associate  editor  Dougald  MacDonald  traveled  to  France  to  observe.  He  saw  that  the  French  love alpinism, and they know how to throw a party. Walter Bonatti earned a golden axe for lifetime achievement,  and  three  teams  took  home  axes  for  their  ascents:  Kazuya  Hiraide  and  Kei
Taniguchi on the southwest face of Kamet in India; Kazauki Amano, Fumitaka Ichimura, and Yusuke Sato on the north face of Kalanka, also in India; and Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck on the north face of Tengkangpoche, Nepal. 

All three ascents are featured in the following pages. There you’ll see why they deserve praise and attention. But, were their climbs somehow “better” than the other ascents covered in these pages? Only if they had more fun—and left the mountain clean and earned friendship from those they met along their journey. These are goals that inspire us all.

JOHN HARLIN III
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