NJ, 1975, 1st edition. 204 pp, ills. A cult classic of modern rock climbing in Ysemite. Harding pokes fun at Robbins' high ethical standards, and describes his first ascent of the Nose. Hardcover, DJ, Near Fine.
This book is a combination of instruction, satire, and autobiography. Harding (1924-2002) is best known for his first ascent of El Capitan in Yosemite, the pioneering ascent of the Nose route with numerous partners, in 1958. He also made the controversial first ascent of El Capitan's Wall of the Early Morning Light in 1970, a climb that attracted national press attention.
The majority of this book is about Harding's early climbing days in Yosemite with focus on the first ascent of the Nose and the first ascent of the Wall of the Early Morning Light. Anecdotes abound in connection with Harding's contemporary climbers in the Valley: Royal Robbins, T.M. Herbert, Yvon Chouinard, Don Lauria, Chuck Pratt, Galen Rowell, etc.
The book closes with an tongue in cheek appendix where Harding rates these and other climbers (61 total) on a scale of 1 to 10, and presents his reasons plus some biographical notes on each climber.
