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Item #: OP1620
TIGER IN THE SNOW: THE LIFE AND ADVENTURES OF A.F. MUMMERY Unsworth
By Unsworth, Walt
Price: $45.00

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London, 1967, 1st edition. 126 pp with 11 illustrations and 5 maps. Hardcover, DJ, Fine.
 
Albert F. Mummery

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Albert Frederick Mummery (10 September 1855, Dover – August 24, 1895, Nanga Parbat), was a highly respected British mountaineer. His father was a tanner and mayor of Dover. The tanning business was prosperous enough for Mummery to devote his energies to climbing and economics. Mummery became friends with J.A. Hobson and they collaborated on The Physiology of Industry (1889), which argued that the economy required intervention to achieve stability.

A.F. Mummery is best remembered for his pioneering climbs in the Alps. Initially he climbed with guides, but later with his companions William Cecil Slingsby and J. Norman Collie was part of the movement that revolutionised alpinism by the practice of guideless climbing.

He put up a string of remarkable first ascents, most notably the Aiguille du Grépon (which features his eponymous crack), the Dent du Requin, the Grands Charmoz, the Teufelsgrat on the Täschhorn, and the Zmutt ridge of the Matterhorn (3 September 1879 with guides Alexander Burgener, J. Petrus and A. Gentinetta). In 1894, he led his friend, the young Duke of the Abruzzi, to the top of the Matterhorn by the same route. Mummery occasionally climbed with his wife Mary, or her friend Lily Bristow.

Both Mummery and Burgener were repelled, however, whilst trying to make the first ascent of the much-coveted Dent du Géant in 1880, being forced back by some difficult slabs, provoking Mummery prophetically to exclaim 'Absolutely inaccessible by fair means.'

In 1895, Collie, Hastings and Mummery were the first climbers to attempt a Himalayan 8,000 m peak, Nanga Parbat. On this pioneering lightweight expedition the mountain claimed the first of its many victims: Mummery and two Ghurkas, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche while reconnoitering the Rakhiot Face and were never seen again. The story of this disastrous expedition is told in Collie's book From the Himalaya to Skye.

Mummery left behind him a legacy not only of some of the most well-regarded routes in the Alps, but also, in his book My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus, one of mountaineering literature's enduring classics.
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