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Item #: OP1612A
OFFICIAL REPORT OF THE JAPANESE MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION 1970 VOLUME ONE ONLY Japanese Alpine Club
By Japanese Alpine Club
Price: $150.00

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Detailed Product Description
Tokyo, 1972, 1st edition. Text in Japanese with a 12 page summary in English. Volume One of Two Volumes only, 10 inches x 7 inches. 444 pp, b/w photos, many tables & charts, several sketches & maps, English bibliography. Volume One is the mountaineering account. Volume Two, All scientific reports, is lacking.
 
This is the official account of the first Japanese ascent of Everest, the 6th expedition to reach the summit. This climb spawned several books. The expedition tried two routes: the Southwest Face (later climbed by the British) and Southeast Ridge (normal route). The Southwest Face attempt failed, but parties were successful via the Southeast Ridge. Naomi Uemura & Teruo Matsuura were the first up, followed a day later by Katsutoshi Hirabayashi & Chotare the expedition Sirdar.
 
One team member died of a heart attack at Camp 1 and one Sherpa was killed in the Khumbu Icefall. A woman member of the expedition, Setsuko Watanabe, reached 8020 meters, becoming the first woman to break the 8000 meter level on Everest (she was probably the first woman to climb above 8000 meters on any peak).
 
Includes a list in English of all 26 sherpas hired by the expedition with their ages + home along with list of expeditions & years that each had participated, with similar list of 52 porters with accompanying personal details. Bibliographic references: Yakushi CATALOGUE OF THE HIMALAYAN LITERATURE 1984 j529 p558; Salkeld-Boyle CLIMBING MOUNT EVEREST J07.
 
Original dark navy cloth, white lettering covers & spine. Lacks slipcase. This publication was issued without dust wrapper. Fine condition. This volume has the bookplate of famed mountaineer Norman G. Dyhrenfurth, and is SIGNED by him inside the front cover!

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