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Item #: OP1145A
THE FIRST ASCENT OF MONT BLANC. Graham Brown & Gavin De Beer 1957 1st edition DJ
By Brown, T. Graham and Sir Gavin de Beer. Foreword by Si John Hunt
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London, 1957, 1st edition. 460 pp, 16 plates, maps. Neate describes this as a 'Scholarly examination of the controversy surrounding the first ascent [of Mont Blanc] proving Dr. Paccard's claims beyond doubt and provides a definitive history of the early ascents of Mont Blanc.'
 
This scholarly, major historical treatise describes details surrounding the first ascent of Mont Blanc, a history that had mysteries, confusion, and disinformation prior to this work. This is an extremely detailed and very well documented historical book, a key item for those interested in the early climbing on Mont Blanc, and simply put, one of the best researched histories in the mountaineering literature. DJ, Near Fine-Fine.
 
Mont Blanc is the culminating point (15,782 ft.) of the mountain range of the same name, which forms part of the Pennine Alps, and is divided unequally between France, Italy and Switzerland. The actual highest summit is wholly French and is the loftiest peak in the Alps, and in Europe also, if certain peaks in the Caucasus be excluded. At Geneva the mountain was in former days named the Montagne Maudite, but the present name seems to have been always used locally. On the north is the valley of Chamonix, and on the east the head of the valley of Aosta. Among the great glaciers which stream from the peak the most noteworthy are The Mer de Glace, Bossons and Taconnaz (northern slope) and of Brenva and Miage (southern slope).

The first ascent was made in 1786 by two Chamonix men, Jacques Balmat and Dr Michel Paccard, and the second in 1787 by Balmat with two local men. Later in 1787 H. B. de Saussure made the third ascent, memorable in many respects, and was followed a week later by Colonel Beaufoy, the first Englishman to gain the top. These ascents were all made from Chamonix, which is still the usual starting point, though routes have been forced up the peak from nearly every side, those on the Italian side being much steeper than that from Chamonix.

The ascent from Chamonix is now frequently made in summer (rarely in winter also), but, owing to the great height of the mountain, the view is unsatisfactory, though very extensive (Lyons is visible). In 1890 M. Vallot built an observatory and shelter hut (14,312 ft.) on the Bosses du Dromadaire (north-west ridge of the mountain), and in 1893 T. J. C. Janssen constructed an observatory just below the very summit.


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