London, 1957, 1st edition. 256 pp, ills, maps. First ascent by Terray and friends. One of the scarcest books on an 8000 meter peak first ascent. The classic account of the 1955 first ascent of Makalu by a French team which succeeded in placing all members on the summit over the course of three ascents. Chipped DJ, Very Good. Ex Lib
Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world. It is an isolated peak, located just 14 miles east of Mount Everest. Its size alone is impressive, but its structure, that of a perfect pyramid with four sharp ridges, makes this mountain all the more spectacular. It has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful.
Previously, it had been admired and studied by several Everest parties, but like so many other giants in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest had been attained in 1954. Chomo Lonzo is a subsidiary peak of Makalu, rising just north of the higher summit, separated by a narrow saddle.
Makalu (in China officially Makaru; Chinese: Âí¿¨Â³É½, Pinyin: M¨£k¨£l¨³ Sh¨¡n) is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located 22 km (14 mi) east of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal. Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid. Rising just north of the higher summit, separated by a narrow saddle, is Chomo Lonzo (7,818m/25,650') a subsidiary peak of Makalu.
Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco, after the team's first attempt failed in 1954. Franco and two other climbers summitted the next day. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge.
The first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team in the spring of 1954. They attempted to reach the top via the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 metres by a constant barrage of storms. The first ascent by the southeast ridge was made by two climbers from a Japanese expedition on May 23, 1970.
Makalu is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements.
