McNEIL'S MOUNT HOOD: WY'EAST THE MOUNTAIN McNeil 1990 Paperback (McNeil, Fred. 1990)

Item #: BK993
McNEIL'S MOUNT HOOD: WY'EAST THE MOUNTAIN McNeil 1990 Paperback
By McNeil, Fred. 1990
Price: $19.95

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1990. 174 pp, photos. All you could want to know about Mount Hood - early hardships, hazardous climbs, disasters, rescues, famous guides, fumaroles, avalanches, and mudflows. The primary book on Mount Hood early climbs. A history of 'Everybodys Mountain'. Great black and white pictures, and maps, as well as the history of Wy'East The Mountain. New Paperback.

Mount Hood

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Name

The mountain was given its present name on October 29, 1792 by Lt. William Broughton, a member of Captain George Vancouver's discovery expedition. Lt. Broughton observed its peak while at Belle Vue Point of what is now called Sauvie Island during his travels up the Columbia River, writing 'A very high, snowy mountain now appeared rising beautifully conspicuous in the midst of an extensive tract of low or moderately elevated land (location of today's Vancouver, Washington) lying S 67 E., and seemed to announce a termination to the river.' Lt. Broughton named the mountain after a British admiral, Samuel Hood.

The Multnomah name for Mount Hood is Wy'east. Legend has it that the name Wy'east comes from a chief of the Multnomah tribe, the tribe after which Multnomah County was named. The chief competed for the attention of a woman who was also loved by the chief of the Klickitat tribe. The anger that the competition generated led to their transformations into volcanoes, with the Klickitat chief becoming nearby Mount Adams and the target of their affection becoming Mount St. Helens. Their battle was said to have destroyed the Bridge of the Gods and thus created the Great Cascades of the Columbia River.

Climbing

Its status as Oregon's highest point, a prominent landmark visible up to a hundred miles away, convenient access, and relative lack of technical climbing challenges lure many to climb Mount Hood. About 10,000 people attempt to climb each year.

The most popular route, dubbed the south route, begins at Timberline Lodge and proceeds up Palmer glacier to Crater Rock, the large prominence at the head of the glacier. Climbers then proceed around Crater Rock and cross Coalman glacier on the Hogsback, a ridge spanning from Crater Rock to the approach to the summit. The Hogsback terminates at a bergschrund where Coalman glacier separates from the summit rock head wall, and then to the Pearly Gates, a gap in the summit rock formation. Once through the Pearly Gates, climbers proceed to the right onto the summit plateau and then to the summit proper.

As of Spring 2007, reported changes in the formation of the popular South Route has increased the difficulty of the climb. Reportedly, the Hogsback has shifted west. Also, a technical 'ice chute' has formed inthe Pearly Gates. Some climbers are opting to climb the 'left chute' variation of the Pearly Gates route, but this has also increased the difficulty of the climb, as it is also a technical ice wall 30 feet (9.1 m) or greater in height, and with fall exposure of 500+ feet. Technical ice axes, fall protection, and experience are now recommended in order to attempt the 'left chute' variation or Pearly Gates ice chute. The Forest Service is recommending several other route options due to these change in conditions ('Old Chute,' West Crater Rim, etc).

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