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Item #: OP86
ASCENT OF K2: SECOND HIGHEST PEAK IN THE WORLD. Desio 1955 1st UK edition
By Desio, Ardito.
Price: $225.00

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London, 1955, 1st UK edition. 239 pp, 24 plates. The exciting story of the first ascent of K2 by an Italian team in 1954. From the dust jacket: 'From conception to thrilling climax, each stage of the adventure is vividly described--economic and political difficulties to be overcome, topographical and meteorological surveys, careful study and choice of equipment, and selection and training of the climbing party. The author, a professor of geology in Italy, has led other climbing expeditions. A meticulous account of a climb by the expedition leader, who is part scientist, part general, part poet and part mountain climber.' One of the most important books on Karakoram mountaineering. DJ, Near Fine. 

 
 
The Karakoram is a great mountain system in Northeast Pakistan and Northern India, near the Chinese border. It extends 300 miles southeastwardly from the Pamir Knot, and includes many of the world's highest peaks, and many of the world's longest glaciers. Among the high peaks is K2 (8611 m), the second highest mountain in the world. Its glaciers include, among others, the 47-mile Siachen glacier, the 36-mile Baltoro glacier, and the 76-mile combination of Hispar and Biafo, which connect at a pass.
 
The Baltoro glacier is especially significant, as ten of the world's thirty highest peaks cluster around it, including four 8,000 meter peaks (K2 and three peaks of the Gashberbrum massif) that rise very close together at the northeast head of the glacier. The Karakoram closely parallels the Himalaya, but its peaks differ from those of the Himalaya in their sharp, angular forms. Their icy peaks are often surrounded by incredible clusters of towers and spires.
 
The Karakoram also receives less monsoon activity than the Himalaya. In fact, many of the valleys deep in the range are very dry. The peaks, however, receive heavy winter precipitation, and, with or without monsoon rains, travel is made difficult by the run-off of melting snow and ice in July and August, which otherwise are the best months for mountaineering. The range is largely uninhabited, so approach to the mountains requires expedition-style planning.

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