1992. 209 pp, ills. This book includes these stories: Eiger, Moose's Tooth, El Cap, Half Dome, Nose in a Day. SIGNED by Jim Bridwell.
'When I started climbing seriously in the early 70's, Jim Bridwell was the biggest name in rock climbing. From Yosemite to Crag Dru, from Patagonia, to the Canadian Rockies, Bridwell was the man. Now, over twenty years later, he is even more the man. He redefined the sport. He's done more than anyone else. He's been everywhere. And somehow he is still alive. But then, Jim Bridwell is the man. The rest of us are just climbers. - John Long, Author, How to Rock Climb.
We wondered: 'would the old fox tell all?' Climbing adventures is the answer. It's a direttisimo into the heart and muscle, the indissoluble spirit, the full speed antics of Bridwell. No other alpine rock climber has been as daring a visionary, as unswerving. Or has had as much fun. It's total recall with white knuckles. - Ned Gillette, Adventure Photo Journalist.
'Jim is a rich and colorful character, a man of passion, intensity, and honesty. His reputation as a climber rests upon solid achievements across a smorgasbord of climbing disciplines. His first book describes Jim's alpine adventures in his own engaging and inimitable style.' - Royal Robbins,
Paperback. Out of print, used copies, VG-Fine condition. SIGNED by Jim Bridwell
So check his resume. It's from Climbandmore.com
Jim Bridwell (b. 1943)
_2001 _- Welcome to Afganistan, El Capitan, new route on the far right side _The Beast Pillar VII A5 5.10b WI4+ M6, 1500m, Mooses Tooth, new route – direct start to The Dance of the Woo-Li Masters, the team spent 30 days completing the route in capsule style, at half height they joined the 1981 line, partner: Spencer Pfinsten,
1999_- Oddysey (VI, 5.9, A4), Grandes Capucin, new route, partner: Giovani Groaz
The Useless Emotion VII 5.9 WI4 A4, ca. 1430m, Bear’s Tooth, new route on the east face, partners: Terrt Christiansen, Glenn Dunmire, Brian Jones, Brian
1998_- Heavy Metal and Tinker Boys VI 5.10 PDH, El Capitan, (“Pretty Darn Hard” in “Abbreviated Aid Rating System”), new route on the southeast face, partners: Boulos Ayad, Tyson Hausdoerffer _- Experimental Earth V 5.10 A3, 10 pitches, Paria Point, Zion, new route, partners: Mark Bowling, Ron Olevsky
1997_Newfoundland ice routes_- Lurking Fear VI 5.10 A3, El Capitan, ascent_- Triple Direct VI 5.9 A2, El Cap_- Wyoming Sheep Ranch VI 5.10 A5, El Capitan, ascent without cheater stick
1992 _- Classic Route, Eiger North Face, ascent
1989 _- Shadows VI 5.10 A5, Half Dome, new route, final push of ten days, partners: Cito Kirkpatrick, Charles Row, William Westby _- West Face (VI 5.11b), El Capitan, free ascent
1988 _- Exocet VI 5.9 WI6, Cerro Stanhardt, first complete ascent via East Face, new route, partners: Greg Smith, Jay Smith _- El Condor VI 5.11 A2, Aguja Desmochada, new route on the West Face, partners: Glen Dunmire, Jay Smith
1985 _Everest, West Ridge _Mount Spender, Chinese Karakoram, leader of the first American expedition to the region _Big Chill 5.10 A5, Half Dome, first ascent, partners: Peter Mayfield, Sean Plunkett, Steve Bosque
1984 _Tawoche, east face, attempt, partners: John Roskelley, Naoe Sakashita
1983 _Trans-Borneo crossing
1982_- Pumori 7145m, South Face, new route in winter, seven days of climbing on the final push, partners: Jan Reynolds and Ned Gilette _- Changtse III, Tibet, first ascent
1981 _- Zenyatta Mondatta VI 5.10 A5, ElCapitan, new route, partners: Peter Mayfield, Charlie Row;_- The Dance of the Woo-li Masters, VII A5 5.10b, 1500m, Moose’s Tooth, East Face, new route in winter, partner: Mugs Stump
1980 _- The Shroud, Grandes Jorasses, Chamonix _- Petite Capucin, Chamonix
_ AMGA Certified Guide
1979 _- Compressor Route 5.10 A3, Patagonia, first complete ascent of Cerro Torre, alpine style, the summit was reached on the second day of climbing, partner: Steven Brewer _- Kichatna Spire, new route on north-west face and second ascent of the peak, partner: Andrew Embick _- Ptarmigan Spire, new route via east ridge from Cool Sac Glacier and couloir between Ptarmigan and Citadel, partner: Andrew Embick
1978 _- The Nose in less than a day with Dale Bard _- Sea of Dreams VI. 5.10 A4, El Capitan, first ascent, partners: Dale Bard, Dave Diegelman_- Zenith VI 5.9 A5, Half Dome, first ascent, partner: Kim Schmitz_- Bob Locke Memorial Buttress VI 5.11b A4, Mount Watkins, first ascent
1977_- West Side Glory VI 5.10 A4, El Capitan, with Kim Schmitz and Jim Pettigrew _- Bushido VI 5.10 A4, Half Dome, first ascent, partner: Dale Bard
1976 _- Great Moments in Baseball 5.11, first ascent, partners: Mark Graham _- Gold Ribbon VI 5.10 A3, 15 pitches, Ribbon Falls, first ascent, with Mike Graham, sixty percent free _- The Outside Face 5.10, Phantom Pinnacle, first free ascent, partners: Mike Graham, Roger Breedlove _- Pinky Paralysis 5.11, first ascent, partner: John Bachar _- South-East Pilar 5.10 A1, El Mocho, Cerro Torre group, Patagonia, first ascent, partner: Bob Staszewski _- Mojon Rojo, Cerro Torre group, Patagonia, first ascent, partners: Bob Staszewski, Bok Killip and John Nitschke _- Mirage VI 5.9 A4+, El Capitan, first ascent, partners: Jim Pittigrew and Kim Schmitz
1975 _- The Nose in a day (15 hours), partners: Billy Westbay, John Long _- Pacific Ocean Wall VI 5.10 A5, El Capitan, first ascent, , 9 days, 5 pitches of A5, the most difficult route on El Cap at the time, partner: Billy Westbay, accompanied by Fred East and Jay Fisk (cleaning and hauling sacks)_- Free Blast 5.11, El Capitan, first free ascent, partners: John Long, Kevin Worral, Ron Kauk, Mike Graham _- Wailing Wall 5.12, Tuolumne Meadows, second 5.12 in the country, partners: Dale Bard, and Rick Accomazzo
1974 _- Freestone 5.11b, Geek Towers, first ascent _- Right Side of Folly 5.10d, first free ascent
1973 _- Straight Error, Elephant Rock, first ascent _- Hot Line IV 5.10 A1, Elephant Rock, first ascent, four pitches of 5.10 and two of 5.9, only six pitons were used for aid, partner: Mark Chapman_- Mental Block 5.10, three pitches, partner: Dale Bard _- Central Pillar of Frenzy, 5.10, 8 pitches, Middle Cathedral Rock, partners: Roger Breedlove, Dale Bard, Ed Barry
1972 _- Complete Nabisco Wall 5.10c, Cookie Cliff, first ascent_- Left Side of Hourglass 5.11, second ascent _- Cream, second ascent of great Mark Klemens’ route _- Basket Case 5.11, first ascent, the most difficult off-width in the USA, partner: Mark Klemens
1971 _- Aquarian Wall VI 5.9 A4, El Capitan, first ascent of the route between the West Buttress and the Dihedral Wall, with Kim Schmitz _- Outer Limits 5.10c, Cookie Cliff, first ascent _- Catchy 5.10d, Cookie Cliff, first ascent _- Butterfingers 5.11a, , first ascent _- Wheat Thin 5.10c, Cookie Cliff, first ascent
1970 _- New Dimensions, Arch Rock, first ascent, the first 5.11 in the United States, line follows overhanging had-jams and flared chimneys for four pitches, partner: Mark Klemens _- Vain Hope V 5.7 A3, Ribbon Falls, first ascent, partners: Royal Robbins, Kim Schmitz
1968 _- The Nose VI 5.10a A3, two days ascent _Triple Direct VI 5.10 A3, El Capitan, first ascent , the first 10 pitches of Salathe, 7 pitches of Muir Wall above Mammoth Teraces, and the upper 13 pitches of The Nose above Camp 4 ledge, partner: Kim Schmitz_- Salathe Wall VI 5.8 A3, El Capitan, three day ascent
1967_- Stoveleg Cracks, El Capitan, first free ascent of Stovelegs pitches of The Nose, realization of Frank Sacharer’s idea_- East Face VI 5.10 A4, Higher Cathedral Rock, first ascent_- South Cetral V 5.10a A3, Washington Column, first ascent_- Braille Book 5.8, Higher Cathedral Rock, first ascent_- North Face V 5.9A2, Quarter Dome, first one-day ascent_- West Face of Leaning Tower V 5.10c A3, first one day ascent
1966_- Direct Northwest Face VI-5.10A3+, Half Dome, second ascent
1965_- Ahab 5.10a, El Cap base, first ascent _- The Slack, Left 5.10b, El Cap base, first ascent_- Snake Dike 5.7, Half Dome, first ascent, partners: Eric Beck,Chris Fredericks
1964_- North Buttress 5.10a, Middle Cathedral Rock, first free ascent, few other routes at that time had as much 5.10 climbing as this route, partner: Frank Sacharer _- South Face V 5.9 A2, Washington Column, first ascent _- East Face 5.10 A2, Washington Column, first ascent
1963_- Northeast Buttress, Higher Cathedral Spire, first ascent_- Rixon's East Chimney 5.10a, Rixon's Pinnacle
1962_First trip to Yosemite Valley
