New York, Barnes and Company, 1961, 1st edition. 261 pages, 22 b/w photos, 3 maps, 7 appendices, glossary.
This is the leader's account of a six-week, four-man Alaska Range mountaineering expedition that climbed four peaks adjacent to Mt McKinley in May-June of 1956. They made first ascents of Mt Tatum (11037'), Pegasus Pk (ca 11000'), Mt Staghorn (ca 12000') and climbed within 200 feet of the top of Anniversary Peak (ca 12,200').
Mt Tatum is just NW of Mt Carpé, above the Muldrow Glacier. Pegasus is south of Carpé at the head of the Traleika Glacier. Staghorn and Anniversary Pk (opposite each other) are due east of Denali and south of Pegasus.
F.R. Brooke writes in his review of the book:
'This book is a praiseworthy attempt to answer Winthrop Young's plea for better mountain writing. Mills gives a very frank and full description of the reactions, frustrations, failures and triumphs of four army officers engaged in some tough mountain exploration in Alaska. The party did some very difficult glacier travel and reached two cols and the summits of three high peaks. But these achievements take second place in the book to the story of Mills himself and the personal relationships between the members of the party.
It is very well done, the dialogue and detail ring true to life. This book will give the non-mountaineering reader an excellent idea of what it is actually like to be on an expedition...'
