2003. 116 pp, color photos, topos. This incredible new book is by far the grandest ever done on big wall climbing in Yosemite! The Huber brothers have been setting speed and endurance records in the valley for years. Also has contributions from Bridwell, Chapman, Croft, Harding, Lynn Hill, John Long, Dean Potter, Royal Robbins. The finest rock climbing book in years! New New Large format hardcover with dust jacket.
For the past 15 years Heinz Zak has been at home in the sport climbing areas and ranks among the most renowned international photographers in the field of climbing and mountaineering. During the past five years he accompanied more than 70 of the best-known climbers around the world, taking pictures during climbing expeditions of extreme difficulty and getting acquainted with them in many personal talks. The resulting pictures and texts thus not only reflect the wide variety of climbing and of the personalities contributing to its image, but also what makes climbing so fascinating to all of us. Wereas the large-sized action photograps demonstrate the present level of performance of the Rock Stars from more than ten nations, the portraits enriched with many personal quotations represent a survey of the evolution of climbing.
Important topics – such as route manipulation, competition and solo climbing – are discussed in this book; various rumours and information handed on repeatedly in a wrong way are presented correctly. The list of all top routes of the climbers at the end will make possible thrilling comparisons under various aspects. Everyone to whom rock and sport climbing means something should read this book!
Heinz Zak
Have you ever looked at one of those incredible photos taken from a thousand feet above the ground of some hard climber doing a first ascent of somenew big wall route and wondered, how did they get a photo of that? Well, if the photo was taken in Yosemite it may well have been shot by famed Austrian photographer Heinz Zak. Heinz has regularly contributed photos of climbers like Dean Potter, Tim O'Neall or Alex Huber to the pages of Climbing and Rock & Ice, as well as countless European climbing magazines.
Born in the Tyrol, Austria in 1958, Heinz Zak has been one of his country's leading alpine climbers for more than 20 years, but it was in 1979 tha the turned his attention to Yosemite Valley. It was there that he discovered that some of the greatest climbing was happening outside of Europe. 'We still thought that we would be some of the best climbers until we reached Yosemite. Only there we realized how far behind we were in terms of techniques and difficulty.' Heinz was one of the first Austrians to visit Yosemite and other American climbing areas, and it was there where he discovered the world of free-climbing. At that time in Europe most routes were still being done by aid climbing and so Heinz returned with inspiring slideshows from America and a ravenous appetite for developing new climbing areas. In Austria he transferred his skills into first ascents in alpine walls of the Wetterstein andthe Karwendel, and helped develop sport climbing in the area.
On a world round trip with his wife and his son in 1984 and 1985 he and Wolfgang Güllich decided in 'Camp Hog' of Mt. Arapiles in Australia to do a book on the best climbing areas of the world. The book came out in 1987 and proved very successful. It showed climbing all over the world, including articles from leading climbers such as John Gill, Ron Fawcett, Bernd Arnold, Jacky Godoffe, and many others. In 1995 Heinz published another book, 'Rock Stars', showing portraits and photos of 78 leading rock legends all over the world.
When teaming up with Peter Janschek he found a great partner for big routes.In 1998 they did a free ascent of the route 'Freerider' 5.13a on El Capitan. The experience they gained from that route was really helpful for their third ascent of 'Royal Flush' on Fitz Roy in 1999. In autumn 1999 they became the first European party to climb both big walls Half Dome NW-Face and 'The Nose' on El Cap in one day.
Today, Heinz Zak is best known for his incredible photographs of the world's best climbers, photos taken from right alongside the action. His latest book, Yosemite - Half a Century of Dynamic Rock Climbing is essentially a history of climbing in the valley, written largely by German climbing legend Alex Huber and adorned with Heinz's incredible photography.
