London, 1971, 1st edition. 344 pp, 56 plates. Diemberger made first ascents of Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri. One of the most desirable and well written Himalayan books. Slightly chipped DJ, book is Fine. SIGNED by Kurt Diemberger.
Kurt Diemberger (born 1932 in Austria), is the only remaining person alive that has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent of Dhaulagiri. Diemberger was also the last person to see Hermann Buhl alive before he fell through a cornice on Chogolisa. Diemberger was one of only two survivors in the 1986 K2 Disaster. On August 4, 1986, Diemberger and Julie Tullis reached the summit of K2 very late in the day. Shortly after starting their descent, Julie fell -- dragging Diemberger with her. Fortunately, they somehow stopped from going over the edge and spent the night above 8,000 metres. They managed to reach Camp IV the next day, where they were forced to share a tent with six other climbers after their tent had collapsed from hurricane force winds. Unfortunately, Julie died later that night, possibly from HACE, and only one other of climbers survived the descent with Diemberger. Diemberger is still active in the mountaineering world and works on film projects with his daughter.
