New Delhi, 2002 [1923] 339 pages. B&W photographs. Maps. This impressive book contains the account of the second British Everest expedition in 1922. This expedition featured two assault parties. The first contained Mallory, Norton and Somervell and reached an altitude of 8225 metres. The second contained Finch and Bruce and reached 8321 metres.
This book is the second of an impressive trio of books containing the official narratives of various British expeditions of 1921, 1922 and 1924 attempting to reach the summit of Mount Everest. The other two books (also published in India) are: Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance, 1921 and The Fight forEverest: 1924. New Paperback.
Contents: INTRODUCTION by Sir Francis Younghusband, K.C.S.I., K.C.I.E. - THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION by Brigadier-General Hon. C. G. Bruce, C.B., M.V.O. - To the Base Camp; The Assault on the Mountain; The Return by Kharta - THE FIRT ATTEMPT by George H. Leigh-Mallory - The Problem; The Highest Camp; The Highest Point - THE ATTEMPT WITH OXYGEN by Captain George Finch - The Second Attempt; Conclusions; Notes on Equipment - THE THIRD ATTEMPT by George H. Leigh-Mallory - The Third Attempt; Conclusions - NOTES by T. Howard Somervell - Acclimatisation at High Altitudes; Colour in Tibet; Tibetan Culture - NATURAL HISTORY by Dr. T. G. Longstaff, M.D. - Natural History - INDEX
Members of the expedition were Brigadier General C.G. Bruce (leader), Captain J.G. Bruce, C.G.Crawford, G.I. Finch, T.G. Longstaff, Mallory, Captain C.J. Morris, Major Morshead, Edward Norton, T.H. Somervell, Colonel E.I. Strutt,A.W. Wakefield, and John Noel. It was decided that the mountain must be attempted before the onset of the summer monsoon. In the spring, therefore, the baggage was carried by Sherpas across the high, windy Plateau of Tibet.
Supplies were carried from Base Camp at 16,500 feet (5,030 metres) to an advanced base atCamp III. From there, on May 13, a camp was established on the North Col. With great difficulty a higher camp was set at 25,000 feet (7,620metres) on the sheltered side of the North Ridge. On the next morning,May 21, Mallory, Norton, and Somervell left Morshead, who was suffering from frostbite, and pushed on through trying windy conditions to 27,000 feet (8,230 metres) near the crest of the Northeast Ridge. On May 25 Finch and Captain Bruce set out from Camp III using oxygen.
Finch, a proponent of oxygen, was justified by the results. The party, with the Gurkha Tejbir Bura, established Camp V at 25,500 feet (7,772metres). There they were storm bound for a day and two nights, but the next morning Finch and Bruce reached 27,300 feet (8,320 metres) and returned the same day to Camp III. A third attempt during the early monsoon snow ended in disaster. On June 7 Mallory, Crawford, and Somervell, with 14 Sherpas, were crossing the North Col slopes. Nine Sherpas were swept by an avalanche over an ice cliff, and seven were killed. Mallory's party was carried down 150 feet (45 metres) but not injured.
