Gasherbrum 4 at 29,725' is the 17th highest peak in the world, the 6th highest in Pakistan. Its first ascent, described in this book, was accomplished in 1958 by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri, and the team leader was Riccardo Cassin. At the same time they were climbign this peak, Nick Clinch, Andy Kauffman and Pete Schoening and crew were making the first ascent of Gasherbrum 1, nearby. This was the only American 1st ascent of an 8000 meter peak. Also, a jpanaese expedition came later in the summer to climb Chogolisa and found the diary of Hermann Buhl, and gave it to Schoening, who gave it to Frau Buhl, Buhl's widow.

 

This book is so well written (and translated from Italian) that we feel that all people interested in the Karakoram should read it.