THE CONQUEST OF MOUNT COOK AND OTHER CLIMBS: AN ACCOUNT OF FOUR SEASONS' MOUNTAINEERING ON THE SOUTHERN ALPS OF NEW ZEALAND. New York, 1915, 1st edition. 250 pp, 40 plates. TEG, uncut. Tall 8vo. Identical to the UK edition. One of the scarcest and most desirable books on New Zealand mountaineering. This beautiful book contains the account of the Ms. DuFaur's traverse of the summit ridge of Mt. Cook, which was a first, and other New Zealand climbs. Very Good.
Freda Du Faur spent summer holidays in New Zealand without visiting the South Island until late 1906. Photographs of Mt Cook at the New Zealand International Exhibition, Christchurch, inspired her to journey to the Hermitage where the snowclad mountains captivated her and she determined to climb to the summits. This visit and another in 1908 introduced her to the mountains and the chief guide at the Hermitage, Peter Graham.
He realised her keenness, determination and ability but introduced her slowly to climbing, adding experience of ropework and snow and ice climbing to her skill on rock. At a time when few people climbed, Freda Du Faur gave mountain guides the opportunity to attempt challenging ascents, while she found enjoyment, freedom and an escape from many of the constraints and frustrations of family and society.
Du Faur's first significant ascent was of Mt Sealy on 19 December 1909. Other women at the Hermitage insisted she should not spend a night alone with a guide, even one as morally upright as Peter Graham. The chaperon, a porter, proved an incompetent climber, and was held by Du Faur on the rope when he slipped.
Freda Du Faur extended the limits of the possible, not just for women, but for all guided climbers of the period. Key factors were her rock-climbing ability, determination, and physical fitness.
In four climbing seasons she made many first ascents and notable climbs. With her guides she made the second ascent of Mt Tasman, the first ascent of Mt Dampier and the first traverse of Mt Sefton, among other 10,000-foot peaks.
