Co, 1977, 1st edition. 275 pp, many color ills. Larger format photo and text history of Colorado rock climbing. DJ, Fine.
In this book Godfrey and Chelton have brought together a collection of gripping tales of Colorado's most legendary first ascents, from 1870 to the present day. Many of the accounts are presented first hand by the pioneer climbers who did them. Tom Hornbein describes the Northwest Passage and the Hornbein Crack. Ray Northcutt gives his version of what really happened on the first ascent of the Diagonal, and also describes his ascent of what may well have been America's first 5.10 climb.
Bob Culp recounts the story of the Northwest face of Chief's Head -- a climb which went unrepeated for eleven years. Royal Robbins writes of his amazing one-day ascents of the Diamond with Layton Kor. Kor describes the first winter climb of the Diamond. Pat Ament tells the story of the first ascent of the infamous Supremacy Crack.
John Gill ponders the finer points of bouldering. Bill Forest shares his experiences on Colorado's big walls. Jim Erickson writes of the first free ascent of the Naked Edge, and Steve Wunsch tells of the first free ascents of Kloeberdanz, Jules Verne, and the Psycho roof.
Through these accounts the evolution of Colorado climbing is presented in its entirety; from the carefree scrambles of the early days, through the 'piton era' of the fifties and sixties, to the hardest free climbs of the seventies.'
In this book Godfrey and Chelton have brought together a collection of gripping tales of Colorado's most legendary first ascents, from 1870 to the present day. Many of the accounts are presented first hand by the pioneer climbers who did them. Tom Hornbein describes the Northwest Passage and the Hornbein Crack. Ray Northcutt gives his version of what really happened on the first ascent of the Diagonal, and also describes his ascent of what may well have been America's first 5.10 climb. Bob Culp recounts the story of the Northwest face of Chief's Head -- a climb which went unrepeated for eleven years. Royal Robbins writes of his amazing one-day ascents of the Diamond with Layton Kor. Kor describes the first winter climb of the Diamond. Pat Ament tells the story of the first ascent of the infamous Supremacy Crack. John Gill ponders the finer points of bouldering. Bill Forest shares his experiences on Colorado's big walls. Jim Erickson writes of the first free ascent of the Naked Edge, and Steve Wunsch tells of the first free ascents of Kloeberdanz, Jules Verne, and the Psycho roof.
The contributors -- several have climbed Mt Everest and other Himalaya & Karakoram giants -- include some of the greats of American mountaineering :
JACK MOOMAW -- Alexander's Chimney (1922). RUDOLPH JOHNSON -- Scaling the Flatirons (1923). BAKER ARMSTRONG -- The Flatirons. JOE STETTNER -- Stettners Ledge (1927). TOM HORNBEIN -- The Northwest Passage (1949). HAROLD WALTON -- The Window (1950). DALE JOHNSON -- The Maiden: Northwest Overhang (1953). HARVEY CARTER -- Garden of the Gods. RAY NORTHCUTT -- The Diagonal (1959) The First 5.10 (1959). GERRY ROACH -- The First Ascent of T.2. (1959). HUNTLEY INGALLS -- The Glenwood Canyon Mudwall (1960). GEORGE HURLEY -- The Grand Giraffe (1960). DAVID REARICK -- The Diamond: First Ascent (1960). STEVE KOMITO -- Outer Space (1961). BOB CULP -- The N.W. Face of Chiefshead (1961). JACK TURNER -- Genesis: Colorado's First A.5 (1962). TEX BOSSIER -- The Diagonal Direct (1963). ROYAL ROBBINS -- Jack of Diamonds (1963). PAT AMENT -- Supremacy Crack (1966). LAYTON KOR -- The Diamond: First Winter Ascent (1967). LARRY DALKE -- X-M: First Free Ascent (1967). BILL FORREST -- Solo on the Diamond (1970). JIM ERICKSON -- The Naked Edge (1971). ROGER BRIGGS -- Diving Board (1971). DUNCAN FERGUSON -- Wide Country (1972). HENRY BARBER -- Solo - Gorilla's Delight (1973). MOLLY HIGGENS -- The Green Spur (1975). STEVE WUNSCH -- Jules Verne (1975) Psycho (1975). DAVID BREASHEARS -- Perilous Journey (1975). JOHN GILL -- American Bouldering (1976). WAYNE GOSS & JIM LOGAN -- The Diamond: Free (1975).
