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THE MOUNTAIN WITHIN: THE TRUE STORY OF ALEXANDER HUBER, THE MOST EXTREME FREE ASCENT ALPINE CLIMBER IN THE WORLD Alexander Huber 2010
By Huber, Alexander and Anna Brailovsky (Translator)
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USA, 2010, 1st edition. 281 pp, photos. One of the best mountaineers of our generation finally reveals the details of his many exciting extreme alpine ascents—where his only equipment is a pair of shoes and a small bag for holding chalk. Along with many other legendary ascents detailed here, he and his brother set a new record on El Capitan, The Nose, Yosemite Park in the Fall of 2007. 
 
When he free soloed the Kommunist’s famous peaks Alexander Huber declared, “Why? For me, it is the search for my limits. On the other side, I am aware that the time is limited.”  Details of his brother’s tragic death while climbing are also revealed here for the first time. New hardcover with DJ.

About the Author

Alexander Huber is a German physicist, climber and mountaineer. Since 1992 Alexander Huber has been a state-certified mountain and skiing guide. He first studied physics, then became a full-time professional mountaineer in 1997 and is now one of the most successful climbers and mountaineers. While being an all-round climber, Alexander is most famous for his bold free ascents of big walls. He lives in Germany.

Notable climbs

1992   First Ascent of Om (5.14d/9a), Triangel / Austria
1994   First Ascent of Weisse Rose (5.14d/9a), Schleierwasserfall / Austria
1995   First Redpoint Ascent of the Salathé Wall (5.13b), El Capitan,Yosemite Valley
1996   First ascent of Open Air (5.15a/9a+), Schleierwasserfall / Austria, the most difficult sport route of its time.
1997   Tsering Mosong, West Face of Latok II, 7108m, Karakoram, VII 5.10c A3, 2200 m: FA with Thomas Huber, Conrad Anker and Toni Gutsch 1998   Cho Oyu (8201m), Himalaya, Nepal
1998   First Ascent of El Nino (5.13b), El Capitan, Yosemite
1998   First Ascent of Free Rider (5.12d), El Capitan, Yosemite
2000   First Ascent of Golden Gate (5.13a), El Capitan, Yosemite
2001   First Ascent of Bellavista, (5.14b/8c), Cima Ovest, Dolomites, Italy
2001   First Ascent of El Corazon, (5.13b), El Capitan, Yosemite
2002   Free Solo Ascent of the Direttissima (500m, 5.12a) of Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy
2002   Cerro Torre, Cerro Standhardt and Fitz Roy in Patagonia
2003   First Redpoint Ascent of Free Zodiac (5.13d), El Capitan, Yosemite
2004   Free Solo Ascent of the Kommunist (5.14a), Austria
2004   Speed Record on the Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA in 1:51:34
2005   First Redpoint Ascent of Voie Petite (5.13d/8b) on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
2006   First Ascent of Golden Eagle (5.11/A1), Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia
2006   Free Solo Ascent of the South Face (5.11a) of Dent du Géant (4013m), Mont Blanc
2007   First Ascent of Pan Aroma (5.14b/8c), Cima Ovest, Dolomites, Italy
2007   Speed Record on the Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA in 2:45:45, till 07/2008
2008   First Ascent of the Westface (5.11/A1) of 'La Silla', Patagonia
2008   With an ascent of Torre Egger, Alexander finished the collection of the three Torres: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia
2008   First Ascent of Sansara and Feuertaufe, both 5.14a, two alpine multi-pitch climbs in the Tyrolean Alps
2008   First Free Solo Ascent of Grand Capucin (5.10), Mont Blanc
2009   First Free Ascent with Thomas Huber of Eternal Flame, (5.13a), on Trango ('Nameless') Tower (6,239 m), Pakistan.
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