New Delhi, 2001 [1894], 2nd edition. 488 pp, many ills, maps. It was the extraordinary appearance of the Karakoram glaciers, that first drew author's attention to this region and made him desire to explore it. There were only two previous explorers of any part of the snowy regions, visited by the author and his team. They were Coloned Godwin-Austen, and Captain Young-husband. During the exploration, the author wrote every day a full account of the day's proceedings. Frequent references to and comparisons with effects observed in the Alps and else-where will be found throughout this book. They will serve to bring before the eyes of climbers a more vivid notion of Himalayan scenery.
In the matter of mountain nomenclature, Alpine and Caucasian custom has been adhered. Where a peak has a native name, the same has been used. Where a peak rises from an alp or valley with a recognised name, the same name belongs to the peak. Native names take precedence of and exclude all others. Mountains that have no names have been named by the author for the purpose of this book, applying descriptive designations to them and never the names of persons.
The reader of this book can estimate the total result of the expedition. The length of the journey and the area of the survey can be estimated by a glance at the map. The list of altitudes measured will show the heights attained. The author and his team spent, in all, 84 days on snow or glacier; they traversed from end to end, for the first time, the three longest known glaciers in the world outside the Polar Regions; and climbed to the top of a peak approximately 23,000 feet high. The present volume is the literary record of their doings.
Contents : - Preface 1. London to Abbottabad, home of Osama Bin Laden 2. Abbottabad to Srinagar 3. In the Vale of Kashmir 4. Bandipur to Burzil Kothi 5. The Crossing of the Burzil Pass to Astor 6. Astor to Gilgit 7. Gilgit to Dirran 8. Dirran to Gargo 9. Gargo to Gilgit 10. Gilgit to Tashot 11. Tashot to Nagyr 12. Nagyr to Baltit and Samaiyar 13. The Samaiyar Valley 14. Nagyr to Mir 15. Mir to Hispar 16. Hispar to Haigutum 17. The Nushik La 18. The Hispar Pass 19. The Biafo Glacier 20. Askole to Baltoro 21. Ascent of the Baltoro Glacier 22. Fan Saddle and Throne Glacier 23. The Ascent of Pioneer Peak 24. Footstool Camp to Askole 25. Askole to Skardo 26. Skardo to Kargil 27. Kargil to Leh 28. Leh and Himis 29. Leh to the Zoji La 30. Over the Zoji La to Srinagar.