London or PA, 1987, 1st edition. 240 pp, ills. A controversial book about a controversial climb. DJ, Fine.
It is a story of strong emotion-of conflicting ambitions and misplaced dedication, of death and victory, of desire and regret. It is the story of top mountaineer Willi Unsoeld, leader of the expedition, who supported the participation of his young, inexperienced daughter, whom he had named for the mountain he considered the most beautiful in the world. It is the story of Nanda Devi Unsoeld, the idealistic, free-spirited woman who was determined to scale the mountain for which she was named.
But most of all, this is the story of John Roskelley, who led the summit party of three to the top of Nanda Devi, and who remains deeply affected by the memory of the climb and its tragic outcome.
Roskelley is outspoken and honest about what he considers an ill-conceived expedition that allowed unqualified climbers to participate in an ascent that was extremely serious and technically demanding. But if he seems uncompromising about the failings of others, the man widely considered to be America's-and possibly the world's-best mountaineer speaks with the wisdom and authority born of tireless dedication and grueling preparedness. This is a story and a man not to be forgotten.
