Canada, 1994, 1st edition. 110 pp, color photos. Poignant account of author's successful climb of K2 in 1993 (he & Dan Culver were 1st Canadians to reach its summit, accompanied by American Phil Powers), & the subsequent death of Culver during descent. The thoughts & emotions expressed are deep & real,& the color photos are some of the best you'll ever see. This book was done only as a large format softcover, and as he died shortly after the book came out, there are few signed copies.
Jim was a professional mountain guide, freelance photo journalist, national best-selling author and motivational speaker.
Jim began climbing when he was 16 and traveled to every continent, completing 7 first ascents in North America (Mt. MacArthur SW Ridge, Mt. Huntington West Face, Devil's Thumb West Buttress, Mt Fairweather SE Ridge, Mt. Bertha NW Ridge, Mt.Sabine E face, Tellot Peak N Face) and classic routes from Alaska to Africa.
In 1993, Jim and Dan Culver made the first Canadian ascent of the world's second highest peak, K2, via the Abruzzi Spur. Tragically, Dan was killed on the descent. Both climbers were awarded Canada's Meritorious Service Medal from the Governor General for their outstanding achievement. Grieving the loss of his friend, Jim struggled at home. After an emotional slideshow to a packed house, the seed was planted that Jim should write a book about this extraordinary experience. He went on to form Tantalus Publishing and self published his first book: K2 Dreams and Reality. It was a Canadian national best-seller.
Three years later he wrote another best-seller Risking Adventure which talks about following the passion in your heart. To promote the books, Jim did more than 100 slideshows across Canada and became a successful motivational speaker, inspiring adults and teenagers alike. The highlight of his speaking career was when he shared the stage with Rick Hansen and Ken Dryden. Jim's photography and writing have appeared in books, magazines and newspapers across North America.
Jim passed his final exam to become an internationally certified full mountain guide (IFMGA, UIAGM) in 1992. He became an examiner for the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) in 1994 and an instructor for the Canadian Avalanche Association in 1995. By 1996, he was the Director of the West Coast Section of the ACMG and worked enthusiastically to support guides through such fundraisers as the Mountaineers' Soiree. His goal was to create a scholarship fund in perpetuity. He was a special mentor to many people. Through his company, North Star Adventures, Jim guided people throughout Western Canada and abroad, quietly sharing his joy of the mountains. He was a guide's guide with the 'spouse's seal of approval'. With his wife Suein 1998, he led 8 people from the Alzheimer's Society to the top of Africa's highest peak, Kilimanjaro. This climb has since become an annual fundraiser and has raised an incredible amount of money.
Jim was a highly accomplished man and successful by our society's standards. Yet the Jim who touched so many people's hearts was loved and admired not so much for what he did but more for how he did it. He was sweet, compassionate, strong, competent, respectful, accepting,honest, courageous, gracious and he loved unconditionally. At his memorial service, the outpouring of love was overwhelming. His legacy is how he made people feel and how so many people carry him in their hearts. Jim passed away on April 29, 1999 while climbing on an unnamed 3,230m peak known as Ultima Thule in the Wrangell-St Elias NationalPark in Alaska.
