2005. 392 pp, 130 illustrations by Whymper. Famous for being the first man to ascend the Matterhorn, this is Edward Whymper's later successful expedition to the Great Andes of the Equator. New hardcover.
Assisted by his old adversary, Jean Antoine Carrel, Whymper managed to ascend several mountains including Chimbarazo and the active volcano Cotopaxi, wondering if or when it was going to blow. Lavishly illustrated with over 130 of Whymper's own woodcut illustrations, this is a worthy successor to Scrambles Amongst the Alps and The Ascent of the Matterhorn.
Whymper had originally intended to climb in the Himalayas, but in 1879 civil unrest made travel to the northern frontiers of India impossible, so he headed west for the next highest range of mountains in the world - the South American Andes. His main object of the expedition was to find out about mountain sickness, then a great unknown. He hired the famous Alpine guide Jean-Antoine Carrel (Whymper's old adversary from his conquest of the Matterhorn) to accompany him. However little did Carrel know that he was to be a human guinea-pig for Whymper's observations on altitude sickness and acclimatisation...
As well as the scientific purpose of the expedition, Whymper managed several first ascents in the Andes, no mean feat for a region devoid of good transportation links at the time.
The highlight of the book is undoubtably the ascent of the active volcano Cotopaxi. As well as a tricky Alpine ascent on snow and ice, Whymper and Carrel spent a gripping night camped on the edge of the crater rim; watching the flames dance in the dark over the molten lava in the sump of the crater, wondering if or when she was going to blow.
CONTENTS LISTING 1. From London to Guaranda 3. The First Ascent of Chimborazo 4. From Chuquipoquio to Ambata, Latacunga and Machachi 5. On an Ascent of Corazon 6. On Cotopaxi and Illiniza 7. The ascent of Cotopaxi and a Night on the Summit 8. The First Ascent of Sincholagua 9. On Quito and the Quitonians 10. The First Ascent of Antisana 11. Upon an Ascent of Pichincha 12. The First Ascent of Cayambe 13. The First Ascent of Sara-Urcu 14. The Province of Imbabura, and the First Ascent of Cotocachi 15. A Visit to the Pyramids of Quito 16. A Walk on the Quito Road and a Journey to Altar 17. The First Ascent of Carihuairazo 18. On The Second Ascent of Chimborazo 19. Upon Some Results of the Journey 20. Return to Guayaquil - Conclusion
A nice copy of this scarce book by the celebrated British illustrator and engraver, explorer and mountaineer, Edward Whymper [1840-1911]. Twenty-three years after his triumphant and disastrous conquest of the Matterhorn, Whymper turned his attention to the soaring Andes peaks of Ecuador. As DNB states, 'From a climber's point of view the expedition was completely successful. The summits of Chimborazo (20,948 feet) and six other mountains between 15,000 and 20,000 feet were reached for the first time. A night was spent on the top of Cotopaxi (19,613 feet), and the features of that great volcano were thoroughly studied. From the wider points of view of the geographer, the geologist, and the general traveller, Whymper brought home much valuable material, which was carefully condensed and embodied in [this book].'
Jill Neate states that 'This book was the first of the few great mountaineering classics of South American mountaineering literature. It remains essential reading for anyone visiting Ecuador.' Whymper was also one of the leading wood-engravers of his time and engraved the many superb illustrations in these volumes.
One of the ostensible reasons for this expedition was to scientific investigate mountain-sickness. His findings and conclusions were correct as to its cause, and his suggestions for improving the unreliable aneroid barometer. For this work Whymper was awarded the Royal Geographical Societys highest honor, the 'Patron's Medal'.
From the Introduction: 'It will be within the knowledge of most of those who take up this book that it has long been much debated whether human life can be sustained at great altitudes above the level of the sea in such a manner as will permit of the accomplishment of useful work. The most opposite statements and opinions have been advanced concerning this matter. The extremes range from saying that fatal results may occur, and have occurred, from some obscure cause, at comparatively moderate elevations, down to that no effects whatever have been experienced at the greatest heights which have been attained.
Allegations of the latter class may be set aside for the present, for the evidence is overwhelming that, from 14,000 feet above the level of the sea and upwards, serious inconveniences have occurred; that prostration ( amounting in the more extreme cases to incapacitation has been experienced; and that, in some instances, perhaps, even death has resulted through some cause which operates at great elevations.....'
Contents include: from London to Guaranda; from Guaranda to the first camp on Chimborazo; the first ascent of Chimborazo; from Chuquipoquio to Ambato, Latacunga and Machachi; on an ascent of Corazon, and walks in the lanes of Machachi; on Cotopaxi and Illiniza; the ascent of Cotopaxi, and a night on the summit; the first ascent of Sinchoolagua; on Quito and the Quitonians; the first ascent of Antisana; upon an ascent of Pichincha; the first ascent of Cyambe; the first ascent of Sara-Urcu; on the province of Imbabura, and the first ascent of Cotocachi; a visit to the Pyramids of Quito; upon a walk on the Quito Road, and a journey to Altar; the first ascent of Carihuairazo; etc. etc.
Illustrations include: Chimborazo, from the Slopes above Guaranda; Chimborazo, from a little above the third camp; ice-cliffs under the summits of Chimborazo; carried on the litter into Ambato; Cotopaxi ( 19,613 feet ), from the Hacienda of S. Rosario; part of the interior of the Crater of Cotopaxi; Antisana ( 19,335 feet ), seen from the Hacienda; at camp on the Equator, at Corredor Machai; etc. etc.
