London, 1975, 1st edition. 224 pp, 23 ill. Written by a Bavarian climber who was led the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand. Also includes climbs on the Grand Jorasses, Karakoram, Ruwenzori, Hoggar, Cordillera Blanca, Mount Waddington, the Mexico volcanoes. Hardcover, DJ, Fine.
Anderl Heckmair who died in 2005 at age 98, guided and climbed worldwide making ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, Canadian Rockies, Coast Range of BC, Hunza, Karakoram, Hoggar and Ruwenzori of Africa and the Alps. Among his best ascents were the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand, early ascents of Matterhorn North Face, Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur, and Mount Waddington.
Heckmair was invited by Karl Herrligkoffer to join the 1953 Nanga Parbat expedition where Hermann Buhl made the first ascent. Due to personality clash with Karl Herrligkoffer, the leader of the expedition, Heckmair withdrew from the team before it left Europe. It would have been interesting to see Buhl teamed with Heckmair. Heckmair, a really tough and fit climber, may have been able to keep pace with Buhl to the summit.
