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Item #: AAJ2007
AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2007
By Harlin, John, editor. American Alpine Club
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2007.
Published annually since 1929,the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest publication of its kind —the world ’s “journal of record” for documenting significant climbs.In the Feature Stories we hear from those who have made many of the most impressive first ascents of the year: the big routes that will become tomorrow ’s legends.In Climbs &Expeditions we discover what else has happened in almost all the world ’s mountains.
FEATURE ARTICLES
The Winds of Chomolhari, by Marko Prezelj ........ 14
A test of will on a cold Tibetan wall.
Sueños del Torre, by Colin Haley ........ 26
A 4,500-foot ice climb linking the south face and west ridge of Cerro Torre.
The Entropy Wall, by Jed Brown ........ 34
A direct route up Mt. Moffit's north face.
The McNeill-Nott Memorial Route, by Will Mayo ........ 42
A new line on the south face of Mt. Foraker.
The Canadian Direct, by Maxime Turgeon ........ 47
Walking a fine line on the south face of Denali.
Freeing Zion's Thunderbird Wall, by Michael Anderson ........ 54
A big payoff for a long apprenticeship in sandstone climbing.
Encounters With Janak, by Andrej Stremfelj ........ 62
A seven-year itch for a 7,000-meter Himalayan beauty.
Cho Oyu Contradictions, by Pavle Kozjek ........ 68
Escaping harsh realities on a single-push new route in the Himalaya.
A Taste of Karakoram Ice, by Dodo Kopold ........ 75
Exploring the early-season potential above the Trango Glacier.
The Genyen Massif, by Molly Loomis ......... 79
Treading lightly in a sacred range.
The Chinese Tien Shan, by Anatoliy Djuliy ......... 88
New routes and great potential in a seldom-visited range. Download a high-resolution panorama of the range.
Information on Ice, by Damien Gildea ......... 98
Seven years of first ascents and data collection in Antarctica.
Washburn Remembered ........ 106
Encounters with the man and his photographs, with contributions from Malcolm Bass, Geoff Birtles, Riccardo Cassin, Peter Metcalf, Thom Pollard, David Roberts, Doug Scott, Lionel Terray, Angus Thuermer Jr., Maxime Turgeon, Stephen Venables, and Roger Wallis. More tributes.
Washburn In The AAJ; The East Face of Denali, by Bradford Washburn ........ 114
A legacy for mountaineers.
The Front Lines of Climate Change, by Joe Stock ........ 117
Mountaineers are the world's witnesses to glacial decline.
The Alpine Conservation Partnership, by Alton C. Byers, Ph.D ......... 121
A global initiative to protect and restore alpine ecosystems.
Le Piolet d'Or, by Marko Prezelj and Philippe Descamps ........ 124
Whither prizes for alpinism?
CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS
Contiguous United States ........ 128
Alaska ........ 161
Canada ........ 178
Greenland ........ 199
Mexico ........ 209
Peru ........ 213
Venezuela, Guyana, Bolivia ........ 227
Argentina & Chile ........ 239
Antarctica ........ 261
Middle East (Oman, Jordan) ........ 270
Africa (Morocco, Mali, Madagascar) ........ 275
Norway ........ 286
Russia ........ 289
Afghanistan ........ 290
Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan ........ 291
Pakistan ........ 312
India ........ 356
Nepal ......... 375
China ........ 402
Tibet ........ 424
Mongolia ........ 441
New Zealand ........ 442
AAC Grants ........ 446
BOOK REVIEWS, Edited by David Stevenson ........ 448
Including:
The Boys of Everest: Chris Bonington and the Tragedy of Climbing's Greatest Generation, by Clint Willis;
The Wall: A Thriller, by Jeff Long;
Strange and Dangerous Dreams: The Fine Line Between Adventure and Madness, by Geoff Powter;
The Climbing Essays, by Jim Perrin;
K2: The Price of Conquest, by Lino Lacedelli & Giovanni Cenacchi;
To the Ends of the Earth: Adventures of an Expedition Photographer, by Gordon Wiltsie;
No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's Highest 14 Peaks, by Ed Viesturs and David Roberts;
World Climbing: Images from the Edge, by Simon Carter;
Three Cups of Tea: One Man's Mission to Fight Terrorism and Build Nations - One School at a Time, by Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin;
An Eye at the Top of the World: The Terrifying Legacy of the Cold War's Most Daring CIA Operation, by Pete Takeda;
Thin Ice: Unlocking the Secrets of Climate in the World's Highest Mountains, by Mark Bowen;
Summit: 150 Years of the Alpine Club, by George Band;
Himalaya: Personal Stories of Grandeur, Challenge & Hope, edited by Richard C. Blum, Erica Stone, and Broughton Coburn; Ice Soldiers, by Paul Watkins;
Illustrated Atlas of the Himalaya, by David Zurick and Julsun Pacheco;
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond, edited by David Simmonite.
IN MEMORIAM, edited by Cameron M. Burns ........ 464
Remembering Doug Coombs, Charles Duncan Fowler, Johann Wolfgang 'Hans' Gmoser, Samuel Harlow Goodhue, Richard K Irvin, Sue Nott, John Cameron Oberlin, Todd Richard Skinner, Henry Bradford Washburn, Jr
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